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Posted

wrong gull (2nd pitch) - beacon rock - you'll still shit yerself- my fav moment was being 10 feet above the 6, looking down at ken:

"dude, i'm fucking wasted! i'm gonna jump"

"what?!?

"i can't do this - i can't get up or down - i'm gonna fucking jump"

"wait - what?!?"

"faaaaalling!"

 

the 6 is good for backbone ridge on dragontail too

Posted

I don't recall needing anything bigger than a #4 for sagi-scarious. Where do you put the #6?

 

 

Carnival Crack (10d) in the Icicle would be a good place to test out the big gear and technique. It totally flummoxed me.

 

There is another splitter OW crack in the Icicle too, but I can't remember it's name. I think it's a 10b. I haven't been on it.

Posted

I followed Sagittarius (hey look, I figured out how to spell it) so I am not sure what I'd do, but I think my leader left the #6 near the top of the "chimney" section. He probably put it in somewhere near the middle and walked it. Maybe my memory is off though.

Posted

I followed Sagittarius (hey look, I figured out how to spell it) so I am not sure what I'd do, but I think my leader left the #6 near the top of the "chimney" section. He probably put it in somewhere near the middle and walked it. Maybe my memory is off though.

 

The chimney section after the long undercling traverse out left?

That's like a 5.2 chimney and has chockstones and stuff to allow for smaller pro. Totally unnecessary.

Posted

You can tick all of these in a long day/easy weekend at Lighting Dome, Idaho:

 

Midnight Fright, 5.9 and clean

Y Chimney, 5.8 (not really "hard", but it is a f&%*ing big O/W)

Cretin's Corner, 5.9 and dirty

Mad Max, 5.8 (again, not hard, but wide)

 

And if it sits in your closet much longer, how much do you want for it?

Posted

Planck's Constant roof in Yosemite! Ok, I needed 2 big green machines, as I was aiding the beast the whole way. Having 3 would have been better...

 

Present big gear is:

#5 Tech Friend

#5 C4

#5 Camalot (last generation)

#6 Tech Friend

#7 Yates Big Dude

#9 Valley Cam

 

Gotta try that next pitch of wrong gull...

Posted

Off-width variation p3 freedom rider on liberty bell. Probably want a couple of 3's, 4's, and 5's and abb's you could grate cheese on as well.

 

I haven't been on it but "another man's car" at index might fit the bill too.

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