Beacon Rock: 'Takes Fists'

[JosephH]

Spent about eight hours today cleaning out most of 'Takes Fists'. Managed to get the upper pitch above the roof thoroughly cleaned out, but on the pitch below the roof I only got about half of it done. What remains to be cleaned is the lower half of the first pitch - the slabs to the route proper. But, free or aid, this is a real beauty of a line. 'Flying Swallow' is up next. If anyone else wants to join in the fun and adopt a column line to clean out, I'd be happy to supply a whole arsenal of cleaning tools rigged for the job.

[billcoe]

You must have gotten hit hard by some of the short spots of heavy rain that swept through the gorge starting at 1pm or so? Good on ya for keeping with it! You must be building up some serious karma points or something.

[ivan]

hmm...going out there right now...maybe that'll be on the block after pipedream? was looking at doing that last week after the dutchman but noted it was brushy. flying swallow doesn't need much work at all, but if you were to clean the last pitch of flight time, that'd be rad (and check out the anchor there at the same time, as from a column away it looks like a death trap currently)

 

never clean the first 20 feet of any of those roof routes! that's were the best of those pure adrenaline holy-fuck-i'm-gonna-die moments are to be had out at beacon!

[JosephH]

Yeah, it started to rain just after I got five feet down the rappel and hit me a couple more times. Fortunately I was under the roof when it really cut loose. Made the ropes a bit hard to pull. It's also a bit dicey pulling into the anchor under the roofs with a bag and all on rappel; might not have been able to if I hadn't had some cleaning tools with me that, after thrashing around a bit in space and really stretching out horizontally, I could finally just tip the arete with the tool and get a swing started - whew. Now I just have to sort out the soggy mess that's currently rotting in my trunk.

 

Jim and I were talking last night again about the need to clean up and restore the various approach slab routes or otherwise have a couple of decent ways up to the columns. Sometime we just pick a day and go do it. Ivan, it would be mandatory attendance for you that day.

[markd]

pardon my ignorance, but what approach slab pitch are you referring to?

 

as you know i'm moving back soon so you can count me in on some scrubbin' and cleanin'.

[JosephH]

Just the moss-covered high angle slabs under the columns proper - what do you call them?

[ivan]

i'm there - spent the day cleaning out and aid-fucking pipedream - all good now except the gianormus blackberry bush that's conviently located just under the craptacular anchors at the 160 mark - took a giant screamer right there, just 3 feet from the anchor and got to discover that the lower 40 feet is indeed a fine free climb, w/ the benefit of a tr

[denalidave]

Jim and I were talking last night again about the need to clean up and restore the various approach slab routes or otherwise have a couple of decent ways up to the columns. Sometime we just pick a day and go do it. Ivan, it would be mandatory attendance for you that day.

I'd like to help if I can make it that day. Give me a few days notice and I'll try to pencil it in.

[ivan]

i do kinda like at the moss infested lower ptiches below the rooves as the "blue collar" approaches though, and fighting like a drunken man through them, scared shitless, serves to make the money shit up high all the more sublime

[denalidave]

Just the moss-covered high angle slabs under the columns proper - what do you call them?

I think the proper name is the moss-covered high angle slabs under the columns proper or some such thing.

[JosephH]

Not sure when this is going to happen, but Jim and I will sort out a day and we'll have a little aid and restoration fest and get the exiting approach routes cleaned back up. I also believe Jim said a pin or two need to be restored on them. Will let you guys know, but it probably won't be for a couple of weeks.

 

'Flighttime' is on the list and maybe you and I should tackle that one together and finish 'Flying Swallow' while we're at it.

 

P.S. Talked with Mark Cartier about it today and he's about off to Makalu with Steve House and company, sounds like quite the adventure. Good to see he's still hard at all as well...