Jump to content

Beacon Rock: 'Takes Fists'


JosephH

Recommended Posts

Spent about eight hours today cleaning out most of 'Takes Fists'. Managed to get the upper pitch above the roof thoroughly cleaned out, but on the pitch below the roof I only got about half of it done. What remains to be cleaned is the lower half of the first pitch - the slabs to the route proper. But, free or aid, this is a real beauty of a line. 'Flying Swallow' is up next. If anyone else wants to join in the fun and adopt a column line to clean out, I'd be happy to supply a whole arsenal of cleaning tools rigged for the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

hmm...going out there right now...maybe that'll be on the block after pipedream? was looking at doing that last week after the dutchman but noted it was brushy. flying swallow doesn't need much work at all, but if you were to clean the last pitch of flight time, that'd be rad (and check out the anchor there at the same time, as from a column away it looks like a death trap currently)

 

never clean the first 20 feet of any of those roof routes! that's were the best of those pure adrenaline holy-fuck-i'm-gonna-die moments are to be had out at beacon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, it started to rain just after I got five feet down the rappel and hit me a couple more times. Fortunately I was under the roof when it really cut loose. Made the ropes a bit hard to pull. It's also a bit dicey pulling into the anchor under the roofs with a bag and all on rappel; might not have been able to if I hadn't had some cleaning tools with me that, after thrashing around a bit in space and really stretching out horizontally, I could finally just tip the arete with the tool and get a swing started - whew. Now I just have to sort out the soggy mess that's currently rotting in my trunk.

 

Jim and I were talking last night again about the need to clean up and restore the various approach slab routes or otherwise have a couple of decent ways up to the columns. Sometime we just pick a day and go do it. Ivan, it would be mandatory attendance for you that day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm there - spent the day cleaning out and aid-fucking pipedream - all good now except the gianormus blackberry bush that's conviently located just under the craptacular anchors at the 160 mark - took a giant screamer right there, just 3 feet from the anchor and got to discover that the lower 40 feet is indeed a fine free climb, w/ the benefit of a tr :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim and I were talking last night again about the need to clean up and restore the various approach slab routes or otherwise have a couple of decent ways up to the columns. Sometime we just pick a day and go do it. Ivan, it would be mandatory attendance for you that day.
I'd like to help if I can make it that day. Give me a few days notice and I'll try to pencil it in.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure when this is going to happen, but Jim and I will sort out a day and we'll have a little aid and restoration fest and get the exiting approach routes cleaned back up. I also believe Jim said a pin or two need to be restored on them. Will let you guys know, but it probably won't be for a couple of weeks.

 

'Flighttime' is on the list and maybe you and I should tackle that one together and finish 'Flying Swallow' while we're at it.

 

P.S. Talked with Mark Cartier about it today and he's about off to Makalu with Steve House and company, sounds like quite the adventure. Good to see he's still hard at all as well...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...