[TR] Fissile Peak Attempt - 8/8/2008

[Layback]

Trip: Fissile Peak Attempt -

 

Date: 8/8/2008

 

Trip Report:

Full Trip Report with photos at AlpineTarn.com.

 

A few teaser pics:

 

 

MCEFUDR8O9M

 

On Wednesday night, despite a 60% chance of rain in the forecast for Saturday, I was still feeling positive that the climb could go. After all, in it's planning stages the climb had already survived a road collapse along Route 99 in Canada the week before. It only seemed reasonable that weather would cooperate for us also. I guess I am an eternal optimist. Sometimes that works out for me and sometimes it doesn't. This climb would be of the latter variety.

 

Our team met in Bellingham Thursday night after work. Jonathan and Ed took one car. Bartek and I took another. From there we drove to Whistler via the Route 99, otherwise known as the Sea-to-Sky Highway. A majestic road by day, the highway works it's way north from Vancouver to Whistler along the Straight of Georgia as it makes it's way past the Chief, (a popular Big Wall destination) en route to Whistler. By night it was just a long drive in the dark, making coffee and good conversation a necessity.

 

We pulled into Whistler some time before midnight and climbed into the back of the car to get some sleep. Stretched out nicely I slept like a baby.

 

I awoke in the morning to the sounds of Jonathan and Ed moving about in their car. Morning had come and it was time to be moving. We climbed out of the car, sorted out our gear, and before long we were on our way.

 

The approach begins at 2,300' alongside the Whistler Express Gondola in the village of Whistler. The first 2.1 miles follow an abandoned road as one gains 1,100 feet alongside mountain bike trails. Upon reaching the end of the road the Singing Pass Trail begins (elevation 3,400'). From here the trail gains 2,300' as it works it's way up the valley through the forest passing an old mine before eventually reaching lush alpine meadows at Singing Pass exploding with Subalpine Lupine, Golden Daisey, Western Anemone, and Sitka Valerian.

 

At Singing Pass (elevation 5,700') three trails comes together to form a "T" junction. The Musical Bumps Trail descends from Whistler Mountain (another possible approach) and meets the Singing Pass Trail and the Russet Lake Trail, which ascends 600 feet to a point above Russet Lake before dropping down to the lake, the Himmelsbach Hut, and campsites at 6,200. At the pass we sat and enjoyed a nice long break amongst the flowers and views of Blackcomb Mountain as we pondered the joyful prospect of reaching camp.

 

The trail above Singing Pass switchbacks six or seven times through lush alpine meadows as views of Castle Towers Mountain and Isosceles Peak appear to the south. Soon thereafter one reaches the apex of the approach as the trail crosses through rocky terrain high above Russet Lake as Fissile Peak and Overlord Mountain come into view. Eager to reach camp we descended quickly and set up the tents.

 

Camp is perched at the far end of the lake above a ravine that leads down to the Overlord Glacier. As such, it's a fairly windy place. The Himmelsback Hut, with a tin roof and room for at least six, is a good choice for avoiding the wind. Since we carried tents all the way up there, and three Canadians already occupied the hut, we figured that we might as well set up the tents behind walls constructed of rocks from the meadow. Bartek and I set up my Hillberg Nallo while Jonathan and Ed set up their REI Quarterdome just a short distance away.

 

After that we cooked and rested. It was still early in the day (2:30). After eating and filtering water, Jonathan took a nap in the tent, while Ed and Bartek went down to scout out the route. I walked around and took some photos before finally settling on the idea of napping on my Thermarest in the sun!

 

After the sun dipped behind the ridge I crawled into the tent and awaited Bartek's return. He soon came back with a report of large amounts of snow on the route and not a whole lot of ice. Unless we could dig down into the snow and find ice a short distance below, it was likely that the 8-10 ice screws we carried per rope team would be less valuable than we had hoped. Our four pickets per rope team would have to be used sparingly if the screws would not work. As we finished our discussion on the next day’s plans (under clear blue skies) I slowly began to drift off to sleep.

 

At 3:50 a.m. Bartek's alarm went off. Mine soon followed at 4:00 a.m. As I wiped the sleepies from my eyes I looked out tent to find that clouds had moved in overnight. Though it formed a good layer, it was relatively high in the atmosphere (and not stuck on top of the peak) and nothing looked particularly ominous. We decided to finish packing and get going. Out of the tent by 4:30, I warmed myself as I waited for the others to finish preparing. By 5:00 a.m. we were on our way.

 

Bartek led the way as Ed, Jonathan and myself followed him down the ravine to the lateral moraine formed by the Overlord Glacier. Just as we neared the base of the route the skies opened up. Looking at Ed and the others, as Jonathan declared that he was putting on his Gore-Tex, I said, "I have a really bad feeling about this." Ed regrettably felt the same way. After short discussion we agreed that it was time to abandon the climb and return to the tents. This way we could at least be somewhat dry as we slept away the morning in the comfort of our tents.

 

Back at the tent it rained (sometimes relentlessly) as we slept. At 10:00, during a break in the weather, Jonathan gave out the call that it was time to "pack up and get out of here". I grabbed my gear and headed for the hut, where I could sort out my belongings. I would have to wait for the tent to be clear before I could begin to pack (as I put the tent in the bottom of my pack). One-by-one, Jonathan, Ed, and Bartek joined me in the hut. I soon had all of my belongings packed and we were on our way.

 

As we left the hut, the rain slowed and eventually stopped as we reached the overlook high above the lake and descended the trail down to Singing Pass. Over the next two hours as we descended a total of 4,100' it rained intermittently. Despite the weather conditions I still found it possible to enjoy my hike out. Although we did not succeed in doing our climb it was great to visit a new area and see some mountains that my eyes had never previously enjoyed. I'll be back.

 

[pc313]

Good Time's were had in between rain and cloud's,sound's like

fun. We had a record snow fall this year,what happen to it!!

Norm

[ScottPick]

Glad you came up here to give it a go. Overlord is a nice hike/climb and its not much farther to go since you came so far. Its one of my few peaks (2x) in my very utterly humble mountaineering career. I remember that Refuse Pinnacle was the only itsy bitsy tricky part. Well the name fit the peak well...

Come on back up soon - your dollar grows stronger by the day.

[G-spotter]

We had a record snow fall this year

Norm

 

no we did not. Coast Mountain snowpacks were less than 100% of long term average in some places.

[pc313]

BUT FOR OVERALL IT WAS A RECORD SNOW FALL IT CLOSED MOST OF

THE PASSES FROM CAL.TO CAN. I HAD SNOW IN MY YARD FOR 3 MO.

AND HOOD HAD DAM NEAR 200%,BUT IT'S GONE NOW!!!!!!!!

[olyclimber]

here is a handy hint: when you type with the CAPLOCKS on, people perceive that you are shouting at them.

[LeeLau]

Perhaps an obtuse question but what route were you planning?

[Bigtree]

That's a great little web site you have there Joe - nice pics. You should wait until the snow flys and try again - completely different vibe with snow/cold.

[Layback]

Thanks guys. We were attempting an ice route - the NW Face. I guess I should have mentioned that.

[Gary_Yngve]

here is a handy hint: when you type with the CAPLOCKS on, people perceive that you are shouting at them.

 

Or that you're Fred Beckey, or both.