Classic Routes

[AlpineMonkey]

I live quite a ways from the Olympics, but would like to do a little climbing in the area. Can someone recomend some "classic" alpine routes in that area. I am interested in alpine rock routes of any grade (4th to 5 whatever), not glacier slogging with total approach and climb between 1 and 3 days.

[RJRiha]

I haven't done a ton of the rock routes in the olympics, but I have experienced everything from choss to surprisingly solid rock. So, from my experience, along with recommendations from others, here goes:

 

West Arete Constance: 5.4 - Classic

Route 3 Mt. Washington: 5.7 - Another Classic

Warrior Peak - One barely class 5 short pitch (supposedly unprotectable)

Mt. Cruiser Route 1: 5.0 - Super classic

Alphabet ridge: Many options

Sawtooths: many routes to choose from (classic)

Needles: many routes to choose from (classic)

Tran Spire: See my TR, guidebook says 5.3, I'd say 5.6, pretty chossy, be comfortable with little protection. If you want it, go get the 5th recorded ascent.

You said you didn't want glacier slogging, but Olympus has a beautiful pitch of extremely solid rock on the north side of the West summit (1-2 cams in the BD range of 1-2 and 2 of the largest Hexes you have).

 

Do you have the newest version of the Olympic Mountains guidebook? It has a list of alpine rock routes in the back. If you haven't climbed much in the Olys, take the ratings with a grain of salt. Some listed 4th class climbs may have never truly been climbed. 5th class rock routes quite often feel severely sandbagged due to the loose rock, poor pro, and old hard-man ratings. If you choose a route that isn't listed in the back under the alpine rock routes, bring a good selection of pitons because that might be your only truly good protection.

 

My recommendation: Get the book and pick a route with little information. It probably hasn't been climbed in decades, then you can tell us all about it! Be prepared though....Olympic rock feels much more serious than the ratings imply.

 

 

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Wow, there is nothing left to add as Mal just covered my list. I'd also second his recommendation of picking an area or a route with little info and going for it. What the Olympics lack in solid rock is more than made up for in adventure, scenery, and solitude. You're unlikely to find another party any of these routes except maybe Cruiser on a weekend. Check out the Constance Massif for some rock FA potential too (there is more detailed info on the 5.7 route in the book too, as well as some likely unrepeated 5.10 spires).

[RJRiha]

FA potential is present on quite a few spires on the Tran side of Jefferson peak. There is even a big wall (using that term based on Olympic standards) out near Tran. You can see it from Hamma Hamma River Road after you pass Lower Lena trailhead. It looks tough, but there are plenty of big cracks and a big overhang. You could be the first to do a multipitch aid route in the Olys (I think...).

 

By the way, has anyone climbed Cruiser recently? Ive heard that there are new bolts up there. Is this true? If so, how many are there?

 

[Reilly]

How come my routes on Constance weren't mentioned? I'm hurt! Ulf's Arete is a great climb anywhere but especially the Olympics- a good long crack pitch, a nice exposed traverse, a chossy dangerous bit, and some nice steep face climbing; nothing more than 5.9 (definitely old school)! The Route of the 23rd Party Congress isn't as nice but it probably still awaits a second ascent. I found some of my old slides which I'll post soon... Take smallest Stoppers you have!

Reilly Moss

[bremerton_john]

Looking forward to those slides Reilly.

 

Have you got any of Wandering Minstrel? Story? There was talk of there being a second ascent by a party in the late 80's or early 90's. Would like to hear more about that one. The west face of Cruiser is striking.

 

Great to see some posts here from you.

 

John

[RJRiha]

How come my routes on Constance weren't mentioned? I'm hurt! Ulf's Arete is a great climb anywhere but especially the Olympics- a good long crack pitch, a nice exposed traverse, a chossy dangerous bit, and some nice steep face climbing; nothing more than 5.9 (definitely old school)! The Route of the 23rd Party Congress isn't as nice but it probably still awaits a second ascent. I found some of my old slides which I'll post soon... Take smallest Stoppers you have!

Reilly Moss

 

Wow!!! I'd love to see pictures of Ulf's Arete. I'd always considered that route as of a grade much too hard to do on Olympic rock for the mere mortal(due to the choss factor). Is it pretty solid in the crack pitch? How about turning the roof?

 

Has that climb been repeated?

[Reilly]

John,

Sorry to disappoint you regarding the Wandering Minstrel. We had a camera along but didn't climb with it. I did get a good picture of a mountain goat licking the salt off my legs down by the lake though. Furthermore, 30 years on, as to the route all I can recall is that it lived up to its moniker, well, the wandering bit. Since we were a couple of Scots and a human we invoked Whillans and said "Right! A fistful of wee stoppers and some knifeblades should see us through. Straight up, traverse left, up a bit, traverse right, and back up to the left. Right, now, about that pint!"

 

Malcolm,

Ulf's Arete should be required reading for any and all. That's the only way to clean off the choss! Actually, I think I got rid of the most offending chunk. When I traversed left from the belay at the top of the big crack I reached a fairly comfy stance from which I could calmly survey my next moves. When I leaned back for a better perspective a large jug came off in my right hand. Since I hadn't fully committed to it I had the time to chuck it before I barn-doored off and pendulumed 15' back into the corner. I also had the time to practice grabbing the head of a striking rattlesnake's head and find another home for my right hand. Einstein was certainly right about the relativity of time. The rest of the pitch is definitely worthy of the worst of the Canadian Rockies-quite steep, totally unprotected, but luckily only 4th class. The last pitch is ab-fab face climbing just to the right of the edge for about half way and then right up the edge! It doesn't get any better. I honestly am not into sandbagging but I am definitely old-school and cannot say it is more than 5.8 but then I always liked face climbing. I do recall the protection as being 'adequate' but then I am a bit jaundiced in that regard having spent too much time with Brits. The rock was quite decent though.

 

As to the first pitch the 'roof' is really just a 'bulge' and very well protected; no worries!

 

I'll definitely try to digitize those slides this week.

 

Merry Christmas

 

Reilly

 

ps

I don't see where you 'subscribe' to this or any thread.

 

 

[Reilly]

Okay, I found 'em; better 30 years late than never at all. Sorry I couldn't find these before the new guide book was published. Now I guess there will be a stampede on the route. After all, you don't have to go up the Chute too far and that's a really good thing. It was a bit tough coming down it in EB's but it was Sept so there wasn't too much snow.

 

So how the devil do you post photos on this forum?

 

The FAQ for creating an attachment says "When creating a new thread or response, you'll see a "File Manager" link on the "Full Reply" or "New Post" page. When selecting this option you'll receive a popup which will allow you to attach files to your post."

I know my eyes aren't what they used to be but I'm not seein' no stinkin' "File Manager". I tried the Enter an Image thing and uploaded the pictures. Then I hit the Photopost and it put my first shot in but I couldn't add any more. But then I started over and those buttons aren't doing anything now!

 

The add an image to my message? FAQ says you have to have the photos available on a server? What, do I look like Google? What happened to just clicking on a 'paper clip' and uploading your images like on a civilized forum?

 

yours,

Reilly Moss

 

 

[Reilly]

Maybe I've figured it out!

#1 Self-explanatory

#2 Like the big rack? I tried to get the Swede to sling it on his left side but stubborn and swedish are synonyms.

#3 Should be titled "This is the Olympic Mountains?"

#4 Yeah, I know, matching Good Humor Man pants. I don't think we used our hammers but I wasn't going up there without some Leepers and blades! You will note the double-ropes; mandatory for alpine rock IMHO (especially if you expect choss). I climbed above the belay to get some pro for the start of the traverse (red rope) then I got the blue rope into a manky stopper. As I recall those were the only two pieces on this pitch and, yes, it was a full pitch. But it was only 4th class after the traverse.

#5 Entitled "Contemplating the Choss". This is where the hold came off in my hand.

#6-8 The big pitch, not that the crack wasn't but this was too good! As I said, the rock was suddenly good here and the pro was 'adequate' but, again, we were glad to have double ropes.

 

Enjoy!

 

Edited December 20, 2008 by Reilly

[Dannible]

Very cool. That actually looks like fun. I climbed some low 5th on the south ridge of Buckhorn a few years ago and to this day I'm shocked that I lived through it. Thanks for posting those.

[RJRiha]

WOW is all I can say. The face climbing looks totally reasonable in terms of difficulty and the rock looks absolutely stellar for the range. The crack pitch on the other hand....that looks QUITE tough.

[bremerton_john]

That's pretty good detail retention for 30 years! Nice description and thanks for the photos Reilly. I'm glad this one and the 23rd Party Congress route made it into the latest edition. I recall you working with Rich O on this.

 

Any photos of Point Smith from the Congress climb?

 

John

[dberdinka]

Amazing Photos! Put it on the list!

 

[Reilly]

Okay, this isn't a great shot but it suffices as far as my memory serves. The last pitch was definitely 'interesting'. I recall getting a couple of nuts in in the first 45' with the last being a #6 stopper. Then it went up and right heading for the apex of the face; nothing that hard but not a walk. Finally, about 45' above the #6 I was definitely 'jonesing', as you guys say now (I think), for another placement as it was 'hotting up'. I got a #3 stopper in to protect the 9+ final move around the bulge. I think this pitch deserves an 'R' but somebody might go up there and laugh at us these days.

 

Edited December 24, 2008 by Reilly

[bremerton_john]

Another good shot Reilly. Thanks for sharing. You still active up in them hills?

 

John

 

[olyclimber]

great pics Reilly!!! thanks for sharing them.

[Reilly]

John,

I live in Southern Californicate now but I do get out about once a year. Did a second ascent of a new route in the Valley last year! When I can't climb 5.10 slabs after sitting on my butt for a year I will hang 'em up. I am going to put my wall gear up for sale though; I can't take the crowds and the beds at the Lodge are too good!

 

Jake,

Thanks. You know, I knew your 'cousin' Charlie 'back in the day'! Yeah, I'm that old... I actually still have a set of his slider nuts; I don't think I'll sell them.

Edited January 2, 2009 by Reilly