Mt. Cruiser

[chesterboo]

Olympic mountain guide and Smoot both reccomend double rope raps. Has anybody done it with just a single?

[mneagle]

I took a 60m rope and 1/2 a dozen nuts and had no problem. It's a long hike and an easy climb at the end, so bring as skinny of a rope as you can. We did it in Sept and had the most trouble negotiating the snow tongue below the peak, which was hard packed ice at the time. We ended up climbing along the moat. If we had brought crampons we could have just marched up the middle and saved a lot of time. We did it car to car without a bivy, which is what I would recommend.

[chesterboo]

Thanks. How many raps did you do? was there stations set up or did you have to make your own? thanks

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I did it many years ago when i think my entire rack was 4 cams, 9 nuts, and some draws (which is more than you need for that route anyways). I think I just had one 50m rope too. I don't recall it being too difficult to get down. I think it was just about 80 ft to rap the 5.0 pitch to the little ledge.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I took a 60m rope and 1/2 a dozen nuts and had no problem. It's a long hike and an easy climb at the end, so bring as skinny of a rope as you can. We did it in Sept and had the most trouble negotiating the snow tongue below the peak, which was hard packed ice at the time. We ended up climbing along the moat. If we had brought crampons we could have just marched up the middle and saved a lot of time. We did it car to car without a bivy, which is what I would recommend.

 

Aluminum crampons would be enough, yes?

[Ishmael]

I did it with one skinny 60m rope with no problems. And aluminum crampons would be more then enough. We just had running shoes on and had to climb around the snow/ice... it was intresting... We did it in a day which was easier then I thought, only about 12 hours car to car, and I am no mountain hard man... enjoy

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I did it with one skinny 60m rope with no problems. And aluminum crampons would be more then enough. We just had running shoes on and had to climb around the snow/ice... it was intresting... We did it in a day which was easier then I thought, only about 12 hours car to car, and I am no mountain hard man... enjoy

 

sweet, thanks for the beta. i'm headed up there soon.

 

 

[XXX]

I think Im headed to cruiser this week as well. If you go up sooner post a TR. Based on the above accounts I think its a safe bet to say that crampons are worth the extra weight.

 

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I think Im headed to cruiser this week as well. If you go up sooner post a TR. Based on the above accounts I think its a safe bet to say that crampons are worth the extra weight.

 

 

I went. No TR - another routefinding failure.

 

There is snow in the gulley to needle pass and it is mostly continuous to the notch. It's pretty hard stuff, even when we descended in the afternoon. I had aluminum crampons which worked fine. We rapped down the top part to speed things up, and had to face in for all of the steep stuff.

[XXX]

I think Im headed to cruiser this week as well. If you go up sooner post a TR. Based on the above accounts I think its a safe bet to say that crampons are worth the extra weight.

 

 

I went. No TR - another routefinding failure.

 

There is snow in the gulley to needle pass and it is mostly continuous to the notch. It's pretty hard stuff, even when we descended in the afternoon. I had aluminum crampons which worked fine. We rapped down the top part to speed things up, and had to face in for all of the steep stuff.

 

Routefinding failure? How so?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I think Im headed to cruiser this week as well. If you go up sooner post a TR. Based on the above accounts I think its a safe bet to say that crampons are worth the extra weight.

 

 

I went. No TR - another routefinding failure.

 

There is snow in the gulley to needle pass and it is mostly continuous to the notch. It's pretty hard stuff, even when we descended in the afternoon. I had aluminum crampons which worked fine. We rapped down the top part to speed things up, and had to face in for all of the steep stuff.

 

Routefinding failure? How so?

 

We used this one:

 

http://www.summitpost.org/route/158756/south-corner.html

 

We never saw the cannon-hole or belay ledges.

 

If you approach Flapjack Lakes, I'd love to know how your climb jibes with the description linked above.

 

 

[StevenSeagal]

I think Im headed to cruiser this week as well. If you go up sooner post a TR. Based on the above accounts I think its a safe bet to say that crampons are worth the extra weight.

 

 

I went. No TR - another routefinding failure.

 

There is snow in the gulley to needle pass and it is mostly continuous to the notch. It's pretty hard stuff, even when we descended in the afternoon. I had aluminum crampons which worked fine. We rapped down the top part to speed things up, and had to face in for all of the steep stuff.

 

I think you might have been a little too far to the "right".