JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Good post - I'll keep Adam in mind. Sorry I missed you guys out there yesterday... Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Good post - I'll keep Adam in mind. Sorry I missed you guys out there yesterday... We did a lap up Rythem Method/Raindance/Menopause (P1). I pointed out your route extension. "Whoohhh....Stout!" kids says, eye's getting wide looking up. "Yup", I replied, piss involuntarily dribbling down my pant's leg and testicals shrinking severely while looking at the roofs up there. Quote
fenderfour Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Pictures man, pictures. You guys gush about beacon, let's see it. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Shane and I need to get back on it but I'm going to be out of town for a week starting wed. Just now starting to feel like I'm geting in good enough shape for it all. Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 I did! More pics? New area. Lad and I was shooting guns. I have 4 ropes fixed and 2-5 gallon buckets full of shit hanging in the background just off the top on the skyline there. Can you see them? I can't see them, but know they're there. Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Excessive plabage. Taken from under the roof @20' above the Rythem Method/Raindance anchors. Quote
fenderfour Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 ... but you'uns from Seattle should stay away... mmmmhmm. I reckon. I did! More pics? Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 View from above the first roof - yellow as planned, red as being realized... Quote
markd Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 the mighty beacon: off my favorite beacon ledge: Quote
markd Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Yellow as planned, red as being realized... yellow = mark d variation? Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 The 'D-viation', though now that I've been up on top of that big orange block it's still not making me very damn happy. So far it's been a pretty x-rated affair above the high anchor though now it's down to an 'r' rating. By the end of the next go we hope to have that down to a mild 'r' and a single rope, but at the moment it's still serious business on double ropes. Bill, cool pics - that blue tint really gives it an extra-choss feel... Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Yellow as planned, red as being realized... yellow = mark d variation? Mark, are you saying that you have climbed up this via the yellow line? Directly above Rythem Method? I had reconnoitered it years ago off the Boardwalk anchors, put in a solitary bolt as I was going to turn the corner and then thought that there was no way in hell to make those moves without riding the overlapping flakes down to the ground. JH approached it from a slightly different angle, but still had to content with the flakes that had not been touched since I'd been up there 20+ years previous. It appeared to me that this couldn't have been climbed without the flakes being pulled off first, thats what Jh found as well, but was able to yank them off from the right side with a bunch of effort, skill and risk. I think he did that just last year. Own up now, cause Jh has been tossing off moss and choss like no one has ever been here before.....unless you jumped on it last year as he was cleaning it off, still a serious undertaking......it's a work in progress still. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Bill, Mark is just saying he'd like to get after that line. The big A-frame roof is what I had originally planned on as it seemed to have hand/finger crack in the top of it. But now that we're up there it turns out to just be a water stain and doesn't appear freeable. The red line we're on is the most plausible free line through the roofs (at the moment). The crux is like a tall, narrow 'A'-shaped chimney which is too wide at the bottom to chimney or stem - you have to face / crack climb up the back wall a bit before you can get into a chimney sort of mode - the difference is this flared chimney is more than 45 degrees overhung and you get completely squeezed out of it at the top. All in all, it's very un-Beacon-like climbing through the roof. That flake panel you're speaking of, I did end up climbing through it on roped solo and then trundling it from above in a stance, as it was just too dangerous to have anyone below belaying. I tagged a second line just in case, which was a good thing because the trundle did chop my lead line. Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Author Posted August 4, 2008 Or we could all pack up and go climb at Smith Rocks.... Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 It is! Everything right of the old yellow / orange anchor to the right of Rythmn Method/Menopause and everything under the roofs is closed. Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Author Posted August 4, 2008 So....the "most" east of the east face is close....not just the east face? Quote
crimper Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 kevin, get back to work and quit bothering the adults. Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Author Posted August 4, 2008 Why get mad at me? I didnt make the rules. Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Why get mad at me? I didnt make the rules. S' OK, you can make it up to us all by changing that post to a picture of a climb. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 So....the "most" east of the east face is close....not just the east face? Kevin, it's a fair question and one I've been asking for the past four years - "where's the line?" The result of a lot of talks with the BRSP and Lisa Lantz, the WSP SW Resource Steward (she "owns" Beacon, but is climber-friendly) is basically a picture that looks sort of like this - with the caveat that nothing is final until Lisa makes it down from Olympia to set the final delineation. The line in the photo below is based on the position of the last anchor to the north out on the face proper (as opposed to any of the lines starting, and climbing out from, anywhere back under the East Face roofs). It also represents the rising, vertical, right-arching edge of the southern-most of the two major upper East Face roof structures. Basically, anything right of that line means you're going under the major East Face roof structures. This line represents pretty much the best 'deal' we as climbers can expect or hope to be able to make due to concerns about the endangered species and archeological contexts which both exist across the breadth of the area under and above the major East Face roofs and north-end vertical faces. Quote
markd Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 Mark, are you saying that you have climbed up this via the yellow line? Directly above Rythem Method? I had reconnoitered it years ago off the Boardwalk anchors, put in a solitary bolt as I was going to turn the corner and then thought that there was no way in hell to make those moves without riding the overlapping flakes down to the ground. JH approached it from a slightly different angle, but still had to content with the flakes that had not been touched since I'd been up there 20+ years previous. It appeared to me that this couldn't have been climbed without the flakes being pulled off first, thats what Jh found as well, but was able to yank them off from the right side with a bunch of effort, skill and risk. I think he did that just last year. Own up now, cause Jh has been tossing off moss and choss like no one has ever been here before.....unless you jumped on it last year as he was cleaning it off, still a serious undertaking......it's a work in progress still. bill, no i've never climbed the yellow variation, i'm just trying to get in on the fun! i have climbed to the top of the pitch you posted pics of with joseph earlier this season and had a blast. i still have faith something else will go up there, however, i'll wait for joseph to find his line before i sniff around too much. Quote
markd Posted August 5, 2008 Posted August 5, 2008 The 'D-viation' like it! now that it's named all we have to do is climb it Quote
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