[TR] Dragontail - Serpentine Arête 7/26/2008

[Val Zephyr]

Trip: Dragontail - Serpentine Arête

 

Date: 7/26/2008

 

Trip Report:

Hayley and I climbed the Serpentine Arête route of Dragontail last Saturday. We knew that this climb would challenge both of us, but we finally felt ready for such an undertaking. We started at the trailhead at 5:00 am. We dropped one of the packs at Colchuck lake (one pack for the person following worked very well on this route), had some breakfast and were at the base of the climb by 9:00 am. We had a few difficulties at the beginning of the climb. As we were trying to locate a way onto the rock, a large rockfall flew over our heads onto the snowfield below that we had just come up moments before. This definitely made me a bit concerned about what else we might encounter up there. Next we located what looked like a good way onto the rock above. It looked a bit tricky, so we roped up and Hayley took the lead. The route didn’t go and Hayley began backing off. She slipped and fell onto her first piece. We re-grouped, investigated the base of the climb some more and found a better way up (a leftward ramp on the right-hand side). So after dodging some heavy rockfall and taking a leader fall, we were now beginning the climb at 9:30. Three easy pitches brought us to the base of the first 5.7 pitch.

 

Hayley climbing the 5.7 pitch

 

 

This brought us to the first of the two crux pitches. It was already almost noon by this point. We had taken a bit longer on the first part of the climb than I had anticipated. Luckily, we had thought to bring extra warm clothes and extra water in case we took too long and needed to bivy while on route. We had a quick lunch while planning the best way up this section of rock. Thanks to Frank and Obadiah’s Serpentine Arête trip report, I avoided the obvious, flaring crack in the middle and went for the twin cracks just to the right of it. I found this line to be very fun! It finished with a sweet 30 foot hand crack.

 

Hayley topping out on the first crux pitch

 

Hayley took the next crux pitch with two dihedrals.

 

Looking down from the top of Hayley’s pitch

 

One more pitch brought us to easier terrain.

 

At this point we realized that we had one more unexpected “situation”. The container with the extra water that we had brought in case we needed to bivy had sprung a leak and soaked our extra warm bivy clothes. Crap, so much for our careful planning! With this new situation, we really felt the need to get off the route before dark. Luckily, despite the immensity of this peak and the warnings of route-finding being difficult, we managed to stay on route (save a couple short accidental detours) and made good time on this section, arriving at the summit at 7:30.

 

We arrived back at the trailhead at 2:00 am, tired, but thrilled about the incredible day that we had shared on the side of Dragontail peak. We both agree that this is a spectacular route, with good challenges and mostly good rock. We were amazed that we got this route entirely to ourselves that Saturday.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Cams (camalots): one each of .3, .4, and 3; doubles on .5, .75, 1, and 2

We took a set of nuts but didn’t place a single one.

We took 10 single slings but would have been fine with 8.

We had 4 double slings and used them quite often on the upper section to prevent rope-drag.

[Good2Go]

Nice work! Did you need axe and crampons to access the base of the route?

[marc_leclerc]

that hand crack on p2 or 3 looks wicked!!! good job guys... i mean girls

[pope]

Well done! Did you belay every pitch or simul-climb the upper sections?

[Rad]

Great job. Thanks for posting.

 

Your nice pics suggest this route is more solid than I had been lead to believe.

 

Welcome to CC!

[pope]

There's some funk up high as the angle eases back.

[Val Zephyr]

Thanks for the Welcome to CC!

 

There was barely any snow on the approach. However, the snowfield on the descent might be tricky without an ax or crampons if it is cold enough to harden up. We were able to just plunge-step down in soft snow though.

 

We decided to belay every pitch, but you could definately simulclimb the upper portion if you want and save some time.

 

The upper portion did have some loose areas, but was pretty good overall. My opinion on good might be a bit off though (Hayley and I have been known to seek out choss).

[jlag]

We were on Backbone right next to ya. I heard the rockfall but never saw it.

 

We were wondering if you were gonna get off that thing by dark. NICE JOB!!!

 

 

JL

[Bug]

Cool. Alpine vacations are the best.

[spotly]

Sounds like you had fun. I've been motivated to get up that route for a while now. Gotta get a partner motivated too though - maybe I'll direct em to your TR

[AlpineMonkey]

On Sat. I was hiking down from Colchuck Lk. in the dark and I ran into two very perinoid boys. I quickly identified them as climbers by the helmets on their packs. So I asked them what route they were trying and the first said, "Were just going for a hike, you know to take some pictures." Then I asked the second what they were climbing and he got supper nervous looking and the first replied for him again, "Were just going for a hike and are hiking out in the morning." At first I was so tired I didn't understand what the problem was, then I suddenly though, Oh yeah, your not supposed to camp up there without a permit. They must have thought my tired, hunched over, weak stumbling ass was trouble.