Mt Baker, Easton Glacier beta

[DPS]

I have only done Easton Glacier once, CTC on skis, and I don't remember much about it. I am taking a couple of friends up this route this weekend and had some questions about where to camp. Selected Climbs mentions bivi sites at the margin of the glacier ~7,000 ft. Is this a good area to camp? Any idea how far it is to these camps? Is there a better place to camp? In general I like to camp as high as is reasonable to make the summit day shorter.

 

TIA,

 

Dan

[cbcbd]

When I was there last year we and everyone else seemed to be camping at a spot around 6500'

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2664048180064115915rWplCU?vhost=good-times

 

Lazy start at around 4:30am and still made it up in time to avoid slush on the way up.

Edited July 15, 2008 by cbcbd

[mtn.climber]

Was there earlier in the week. Camping begins at top of railroad grade, but you can get higher than that. Move along the right edge of rocks and there have been camp sites dug out higher up. Snow was good until the sun hit, then turned soft pretty quick.

[crazy_t]

At the end of the RR grade there's a flat, sandy area, then you can follow a ridge generally up and leftish that has several rock outcroppings. Ahead, at roughly 6500+ you'll see two big outcroppings, the highest ones in that area, that are side by side with a little "couloir" or snow ramp between them. The left one borders the edge of the deep valley cut by the Deming. You can camp on or just above these, which gets you as high as possible w/o getting onto a glacier.

 

Guided parties like this camp, particularly the R side, and you won't likely see the tents until you are right there, so if it's slammed up there it might be a good idea to have scoped sites just below the area.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

At the end of the RR grade there's a flat, sandy area, then you can follow a ridge generally up and leftish that has several rock outcroppings. Ahead, at roughly 6500+ you'll see two big outcroppings, the highest ones in that area, that are side by side with a little "couloir" or snow ramp between them. The left one borders the edge of the deep valley cut by the Deming. You can camp on or just above these, which gets you as high as possible w/o getting onto a glacier.

 

Guided parties like this camp, particularly the R side, and you won't likely see the tents until you are right there, so if it's slammed up there it might be a good idea to have scoped sites just below the area.

 

You might consider the Squak Glacier. I believe it has higher camps, and avoids the crowds low down, and merges with the Easton route higher up.

 

info at summitpost

Edited July 11, 2008 by KaskadskyjKozak

[DPS]

Thanks a bunch!

[Mr_Christian]

Does anyone have any beta on how the actual Easton route is doing?

[AllYouCanEat]

Dan,

 

I was up there and skied the Easton. It was nice. There are a few quickly thinning bridges. The squak could be a better bet and certainly gets you away from the people. There were a lot up there. Ha. I should've expected it. Anyhow, you can drive to the parking lot, spotty snow until the railroad which is nice and dry. Tons of camps around, but lots of people so you could get hosed. If so, head left or right and you'll find something. Otherwise the glacier is in good shape cept for a few thinning bridges some may want a rope for.

[Mr_Christian]

Thanks! I will take a look at the Squawk route and see what looks better.

[Hendershot]

I was up on the Squak/ Easton last Sat. The plan was to skin up to Sherman Peak and ski down the same day. Sherman peak looked heavily crevased, so we opted to traverse over to the Easton route. We only encountered one spicy snowbridge. Other than that, conditions were ideal. Descended the Squak, 12 hours car to car.