Braydon Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 I'll be spending a couple of weeks in Yosemite the summer and am wanting to do Royal Arches. I should be able to free the 5.10b traverse but I've heard Yosemite grades are pretty stiff so I may just use the fixed pendulum depending on how I feel. There's one problem though...I have no idea what that is. Can someone explain? Can a non-aid climber pick it up easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 It's like 5.9 from what I remember, and you can pretty much just hold onto the fixed line and walk across. The descent is tougher than the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadug Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 It is a pretty easy traverse even without fixed gear. Give yourself plenty of time to do the route in case you get stuck behind other parties...or if you are not a fairly fast team. You can rap down with 2 60m ropes. The rap route is a ways over to the left as you finish the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Braydon, The "pendulum" is actually a fixed sling (sometimes webbing, sometimes a short section of old rope) attached I believe with a bolt and hangar. It'll have a tied loop or two you'll clip a biner into. If you can't make the move free, it's merely a little French Free move. You can have your belayer put you on full tension with the rope using that sling while you traverse left to the ledge, and you can also grab the fixed sling as Serenity says. Yosemite ratings of difficulty are actually true. It's where the system of American ratings--originally called the Yosemite Decimal System--was popularized and refined. Generally, trad climb areas being established around the same time (50s to 70s, including Leavenworth, Index, Minnehaha in Spokane) tend to have ratings more similar to Yose. Other areas developed since the 80s, often more sport-climb-oriented (including Smith, Frenchman Coulee, and Q'emiln Park in Post Falls, ID), tend to have softer or inflated ratings. The original descent for the Arches is the North Dome Gully, which is on the other side of Washington Column from the Arches route. If you have to rap on that descent you're off route. With it's little bit of 4th class, or worse if you get off route, it's definitely not one to try and find in the dark. Especially if no one in your party has ever done it. However, some say you aren't getting the full Arches experience if you don't do the North Dome Gully descent, with it's hike up and over the Column and great views of Half Dome and that side of the Valley. Even if you do the newer rap descent, you HAVE to do the final friction traverse into The Jungle, not just to truly finish the route but also to refill your water bottles. ...The rap route is a ways over to the left as you finish the route. A clarification: The raps don't start to the left of the finish of the route. The raps start at the belay anchors marking the beginning of the final, Friction Pitch that traverses in to The Jungle. It's "cheating," but you can fix your rope on the Friction Pitch so you can more easily reverse the traverse to get back to the rap anchors. You'll get the most karma points, though, if you don't fix the final traverse pitch, and both the leader and follower do the Friction Traverse standing up without any touching with your hands. Both ways. Have fun and good luck on freeing that move. --Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadug Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Oops! Ya it is at the end of the 14th pitch...a little bit of exposed 4th class. We continued up and did Crest Jewel on North Dome after Royal Arches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Right on, Canadadug, the Royal Arches-Crest Jewel link is even more primo. About 10 years ago I got passed on the final Arches pitch by a small group of Squish climbers who'd soloed Arches so they could do Crest Jewel later that evening in the full moonlight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 If you descend the North Dome Gulley, be prepared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 It is a pretty easy traverse even without fixed gear. Give yourself plenty of time to do the route in case you get stuck behind other parties...or if you are not a fairly fast team. You can rap down with 2 60m ropes. The rap route is a ways over to the left as you finish the route. So So true, locals get a dawn start - if you sleep in there will be a line of folks. Great fun route (aren't most all Yosemiti route awesome!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Trippett Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 The penji goes free at like .10a(5.9+ ) Quick story...I soloed the route last year without the penji....the moves are thin but everything is there. Anyway...whatever about that.... the story here is that when I solo I usually leave my shoes...and descend barefoot. Bad idea. I walked off the Arches barefooted down the North Dome gully. One of the worst experiences ever. To make things worse, I almost stepped on a rattlesnake about halfway down. It was only out of courtesy he didn't bite. I was about two inches from his head. He never even rattled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted June 28, 2008 Author Share Posted June 28, 2008 Thanks! Any other route recommendations for the 5.10a and under climber? So far were doing Royal Arches, Fairview Dome, and Cathedral Peak as a warm-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Crest Jewel, Central Pillar of Frenzy p1-5, Peruvian Flake, Nutcracker, Reeds Direct, Bishops Terrace, Highway Star, Jamcrack, Maple Jam, Positively 4th Street, Keystone Corner, East Buttress El Cap, West crack DAFF Dome, 3rd pillar Dana, Moby Dick Center, Jawbone, New Deviations, Doggie Deviations, NE Butt higher cathedral, Braille Book, E Butt Middle Cathedral (you can french free the 10c section, but it's easy for the rating), Steck Salathe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted June 28, 2008 Author Share Posted June 28, 2008 wow...that list will keep us busy... thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I walked off the Arches barefooted down the North Dome gully. One of the worst experiences ever. Oh My God Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadug Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral is one of my all time favorites anywhere.....but get an early start as it is long with a fairly long approach and walk off. A MUST DO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serenity Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I have dim memories of the trip I climbed the Arches on, but I do remember Wallstein soloed past us at about the 7th pitch, and then slipped on the descent and broke his wrist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 I walked off the Arches barefooted down the North Dome gully. One of the worst experiences ever. Oh My God Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 Climbed RA last week. Penji rope is in place. The rap was mellow but is set up for 50M ropes so don't pass the anchors. Also, near the bottom, when you come to big tree with slings, make sure you rap to the east and NOT down the fall line. Anchor is around corner near dead pine tree. Other routes should include Munginella, Jam Crack followed by TR of 10s, Bishop Terrace.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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