Jopa Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 I am curious to hear from those who have traversed from Luna Col to Fury's S.E. Glacier. Is it mostly exposed ridge walking or are there sections that require protection? Any tricky spots getting to the glacier? Is it pretty much a walk-up once on the glacier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 The conditions we encountered a couple of years ago in July were: 1) An exposed ramp to access the ridge on the north side which involved some mixed climbing; 2) No pro necessary for the hike along the ridge; 3) Some navigation necessary to access the glacier that had some 4th class exposure on steep rock; 4) It was steep getting over the schrund near the top of the glacier. I don't remember ever roping up though. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Sidehilling for what feels like DAYS through snow, slabs, rock, scree, talus, and football fields of heather....not really effective to rope up for any of it, though, as I recall....the views of the Southern Pickets from that traverse are mind-boggling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks for the feedback Kyle and Goatboy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiplash Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 I remember it being pretty straight forward, they view from the col looks intimidating but there's a nice sidewalk on the north side. Select climbs mentions a 5th class step and we stayed climbers right on the way in and down-climbed the left side on the way out. There was a rap sling here and that was the only spot that I thought could be 5th class on the ridge. The views are great from the ridge, here's some pictures from a few years back.  Start of the ridge from Luna Col  Farther along the ridge  One of the rock steps  Down climbing   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Nice pics. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patob Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 I soloed it from luna col a few years ago. The ridge was straightforwarded. I remember that it was best to drop a bit to access the glacier. just scrambling, never wanted a rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 I remember a couple of short 5.6 bits, definite route finding also, might be tricky if it got dark. You definitely have to drop off the ridge right and left to get around cliffs and near the end go way left(exposed), unless you want to go direct on the ridge and do some loose 5.7 near the glacier. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Welcome back Buck, Great pics as usual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Yeah, now if I can just get back up there and get something done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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