High Plains Drifter - Squamish

[Blake]

Like Clint, this climb is pretty badass.

 

I had the chance to check this out yesterday morning with my friend David and it's fantastic. In the Squamish select guide it is listed as .11a (text) .11b (photo) and .11c (topo) Likewise, the original McLane guide lists only one pitch. Here's the straight scoop:

 

The route follow the crack just left of the sun/shade line, as seen from Angel's Crest

 

 

P1 (.11a) is a long slightly-overhanging hand crack.

 

 

P2 (.11c) follows the hand and finger cracks to a face climbing crux just before the anchors. From here it's some easy 5th class to the summit.

 

The route now can be approached via Angel's Crest by heading right on an obvious trail/ledge after the Acrophobes Towers. (~pitch 12)

 

One could also climb the complete Angels Crest and easily get down to the chain anchors above the .11c pitch to lower down the entire line and climb back out. I think this would be totally worthwhile, even on TR, as a reward at the summit.

 

The .11c crux cannot be aided, although the fall would be short/clean. A double set of cams to #2 camalot, plus one #3 and #4 is good. Bring an extra hand-sized if anything else.

 

[Sherri]

Looks like you found yourself a fun line there, Blake. Nice job.

 

Glad you got it while the sun was shining, too. Weather sux in Squamish today.

[pink]

[counterfeitfake]

Excellent. I've been intrigued by this route since seeing that picture in Squamish Select. Nice to know someone actually climbs it.

[Rad]

Blake!

[glassgowkiss]

be brought 4x #2 camalots for pitch 1, but six of them would be nice.

Borderline to the Crest to the Drifter is a proud line with a lot of good climbing- one of the best lines in squish imo

Edited July 21, 2008 by glassgowkiss

[kevbone]

I put up a climb called "high plains drifter" a couple of years ago....this one looks way cooler....