Squamish Rockclimbing Stragefy

[fern]

 

I am posting this for a friend:

 

I am considering a proposal for a student research project that would involve updating the rock climbing strategy for the Stawamus Chief, Shannon Falls and Murrin provincial parks. Was hoping to solicit some feedback from the local climbing community regarding thoughts on the need or usefulness of a new management strategy as well as what the main issues might be (eg; parking, access, vegetation removal, fixed anchors, camping, bird closures etc)? Any comments would be appreciated!

 

ps. link to current strategy document

Current Strategy Document

 

It's a long document, but probably worth a read since it was written about 10 yrs ago and not updated.

 

 

[Jens]

Perhaps it will look at parking lot thefts at squamish.

[JayB]

Some kind of secure storage option would be a major plus for visitors, I think.

 

 

[summerprophet]

Fern,

 

I would consult with the "Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia", I believe they may have been involved with the original draft, and are also heavily into all the background government stuff as far as land management and park issues.

 

Incidently, you wouldn't happen to be the same Fern I met in Yosemite circa 1998 would you? I remember you planning on gearing up to solo the prow.

[Bill_Simpkins]

It is getting too crowded up there on the weekends.

 

It can be hard to find a place to stay sometimes without reservations.

 

Need an easier way than walking to get from the bars to the campground at 2 am when I put down a few more than I should have.

 

They should put up those pay telescopes in the parking lots so tourists(and climbers) can watch people on the Chief.

 

All the Chief hikers and pad people walk on the road. There should be a path on the cliff side of the road from the highway to the Chief trailhead.

 

More bathrooms. They also need a public bathroom over by the Starbucks.

[jmace]

All the Chief hikers and pad people walk on the road. There should be a path on the cliff side of the road from the highway to the Chief trailhead.

 

Between the Apron and the Chief there is a new trail

 

if you mean from the first parking lot to Chief trail head then you should park at one of the new upper three lots.

 

More bathrooms

 

there are 4 or more now...and I saw a new site on the Apron Chief trail

 

It is getting too crowded up there on the weekends.

 

I saw one BC plate last weekend...and lots of taped up hands climbing on the apron.

[phillygoat]

 

and lots of taped up hands climbing on the apron.

 

That's protection for when we fall off Diedre!

[fern]

 

student research project is over now - original request met with little feedback.

 

Whether or not the FMCBC is representative of the "local climbing community" is up for debate.

 

I did at one point gear up to solo the Prow, but shortly thereafter geared down again.

[Reilly]

Gee, it was no problem getting a nice room at the one and only hotel for $6 in 1970! :-)

Oh, and a case of Labatts was $2.50...

[dan_e]

I first climbed at Squamish two years ago when I was still living back east. It was an amazing trip, we did it all from the classic trad routes, to a day of sport climbing and some bouldering. The only negative of the trip was the camping which really sucks. The one weekend day we stayed there was a nightmare. So loud from people blaring music and screaming until 1 am and the road construction which seem to go on all night as well. There needs to be way more camping there and camping for climbers who don't want to party until the sunrise!

 

Now that I am living in Seattle I would plan to go during the week, the weekends are just too crowded.