Noodle Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Trip: Yellowjacket Tower - Date: 5/4/2008 Trip Report: After grunting our way up the trail with the sun beating down on us, we reached the chockstone. We climbed up around it to the right, and didn't immediately head back to the left and into the gulley. We spent some time and one pitch poking around above and took the hint when we saw a retreat rappel station. The rappel put us right at the spot where we could get back into the gulley, which is still filled with snow all the way up. Our second routefinding error had us passing up the hidden gulley. After consulting the route description we headed back down the main gulley and to the base of the hidden gulley where our goat friend was waiting, as if to say "what took you guys so long?" We opted to just scramble this section which had only one awkward move at the top. This brought us to the right-facing dihedral which was very wet from snowmelt above. John opted to do the lead in rock shoes and after a bunch of cursing to psyche myself into a couple questionable "friction" moves on the slick mess, I made it up in boots. John led the summit pitch and managed to get some gear in to protect the last move or two. I lowered him and top roped it up with some more cursing at the high-step he made look easy. Gear Notes: Bring a towel, it's drippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 6, 2008 Share Posted May 6, 2008 Sweet! Thanks for the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olymand Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 nice pix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Why is all that tat there when there is perfectly good chain? Someone should either cut the chain in the middle or else put a quick link or two in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Hmmm, I've never been up there but it appears to me to be two chains connected with a single rap ring in the center (kind of tilted to look like another chain link). True? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Only in Washington. "Hmmm, better back up this 3/8" chain, it's prolly good, but you just never know..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noodle Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Don't recall the exact setup, but it looks like two bolts with a single chain strung between them, and runners tied to the bolt hangers. There is definitely not a rap ring involved in the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Nice TR and pics! I've read that the property along the road is signed "Private" - is the bridge private too? I'm guessing a pretty small rack - sizes? How long did it take you car-to-car? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Hmmm, I've never been up there but it appears to me to be two chains connected with a single rap ring in the center (kind of tilted to look like another chain link). I've never been up there either, but I find this explanation to be completely illogical. As in, how would one connect a rap ring (a fused, solid metal annulus) to the chain links (also fused and solid, although oval in shape)? Since the chain links in question are clearly not quick-links, and a rap ring, by definition, is not able to be opened and closed, by what magic would one construct an anchor such as you describe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 It appears to be a single chain to me. If I get an answer to my question above though, I'll scope it out and send an update. Wheather and procurement of a climbing partner permitting of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 It appears to be a single chain to me. as it does to me. and most likely quick-linked to the bolt hangers on both ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 What is the carbon content of the steel used in the chain or chains? Were the bolt holes drilled deep enough or were they being pushed out by freeze-thaw? Were those your grandma's hosery? Dudes, it was a rock climb. He took pictures. We all got to see them. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Hey Keith, don't blame me! Brian started it! neener neener Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Fine. The slings are probably there because the chains are so short. Rope drag when pulling the rope over that course rock might be a big problem. NOW STOP YANKIN MY CHAIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 NOW STOP YANKIN MY CHAIN! "Would you like a rap rings with that?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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