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cheamclimber

Yak Check

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Does anybody know when Yak Chek is usually dry, late May? Also... I heard the ratings are quite soft on the climb... are the 5.10 pitches like squamish 10a or hard 10a, I've been told that the route is excellent with good pro and pretty moderate.. is this prettty accurate?

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whatever 5.10 there is, is short and not hard. There is lots more runout 5.8/5.9 on so-so rock that requires more extended attention. I wouldn't call it excellent. Good, moderate climbing, adequate pro.

In spring when the descent is still snowchoked there may be some complications in getting off - maybe a rap, maybe step-cutting.

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Last year in early June (I think) it still had snow on it and was drenched.

 

Jan

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It's going to take a long time for this year's snow pack to melt. There are quite a few trip reports giving all the info you need if you do a quick search.

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I`d say the grades are the same as Squamish. Most of the climbing is well protected but I found the last pitch in Yak Crack before you start to go into Reality Check (the pitch before the one through the arching overlap) was pretty run-out. It was scary mostly because the rock turns into kitty litter and you're freaked your holds are going to come off on you.

Edited by tlinn

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was on Nak yesterday (Yaks east neighbor) digging snow profiles... the HS (height of settled snow) was in the 3ish meter range some places deeper than 4 meters. 2.5 meters at the highway WX station. lotsa snow to go yet.. good for skiing.. bunk for climbing.

 

Chris Link.

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I didn't find the kitty litter pitch too bad. Short crux and off-vertical slope, the run-out didn't bother me. The upper slabby pitches got my attention more (the 10a ones). Even then, Squamish 5.10a for sure.

 

Just do it; its good times.

 

I agree that early season the crux may be the descent if you chose the walk-off. Pay attention to the snow conditions and come prepared (i.e. consider axe, sturdy boots and maybe even crampons). Only you can judge your skill on moderately steep, possibly icey slope. Then again, it might be easy plunge-stepping if the snow is right.

Edited by bstach

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Great climb. Fern and Ty's descriptions match my memories. Most of McLane's pitch ratings seemed accurate, except the second 10a slab, which felt more like 5.8. It's pretty blank, so if its a bit dirty, it might feel more like 5.10.

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