glassgowkiss Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pizem_completes_513_roof_crack/ climbing strikes again! yet another spray story, most likely submitted by local spray lord going to press without any reason. i don't think it's really a gear route if the gear is pre-placed, regardless of how hard it is. imo this route still waits for a true FA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 First accent IMO is the first accent regarless of top rope or aiding. You mean first free accent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted March 25, 2008 Author Share Posted March 25, 2008 first ascent is counted only if the route is led. when it comes to gear routes the gear must be placed on lead. don't get me wrong- i am guilty of pre-placing gear on couple of lines (at smith) long, long time ago. however the style placing gear on lead is established for a long time ever since, hence imo first ascent claims on gear routes using such tactics are dubious at best. vide skinner's ascent of city park and salathe to name a few. in the past Climbing was notorious for running stories submitted by spray-lord wannabe wankers. looks like they are back to the old form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 I disagree. IMO the First Ascent is exactly that…..the first person to ascend the climb regardless of how. Then the First Free Ascent is the first person to send it on lead. Whether the gear is pre placed or not is still up for discussion as to style points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 I don't understand your Améri`càn àccént Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 I disagree. IMO the First Ascent is exactly that…..the first person to ascend the climb regardless of how. Then the First Free Ascent is the first person to send it on lead. Whether the gear is pre placed or not is still up for discussion as to style points. look- let's put it in the perspective. the guy placed 2 bolts and then pre-placed all the gear. in fact he made it into sort of bastardized sport climb. the climb is graded 13d (again- unconfirmed- one might ask what other routes of that grade did he climb in the past?). 13d or 8b sport is not that high for sport climbing. i think it's probably great personal achievement, however i don't think it doesn't warrant a write up on pages of "Hot Flashes". simply if magazines start writing about every 8b, even in the US, it will be virtually impossible to sift through the mountain of bullshit. historically editors at "climbing" did a really shitty job of checking the stories and were notorious for publishing and promoting what boils down to a complete spray of their self-adoring circle jerk clownpunchers. looks like they are back to their old form Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetBoss Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 I disagree. IMO the First Ascent is exactly that…..the first person to ascend the climb regardless of how. Then the First Free Ascent is the first person to send it on lead. Whether the gear is pre placed or not is still up for discussion as to style points. look- let's put it in the perspective. the guy placed 2 bolts and then pre-placed all the gear. in fact he made it into sort of bastardized sport climb. the climb is graded 13d (again- unconfirmed- one might ask what other routes of that grade did he climb in the past?). 13d or 8b sport is not that high for sport climbing. i think it's probably great personal achievement, however i don't think it doesn't warrant a write up on pages of "Hot Flashes". simply if magazines start writing about every 8b, even in the US, it will be virtually impossible to sift through the mountain of bullshit. historically editors at "climbing" did a really shitty job of checking the stories and were notorious for publishing and promoting what boils down to a complete spray of their self-adoring circle jerk clownpunchers. looks like they are back to their old form Dewd - This is a alot of time and energy worrying about the small details of meaningless junk. Elitism spray is everywhere in every sport. Let's go climbing and make up our own epics and FA's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted March 26, 2008 Author Share Posted March 26, 2008 I disagree. IMO the First Ascent is exactly that…..the first person to ascend the climb regardless of how. Then the First Free Ascent is the first person to send it on lead. Whether the gear is pre placed or not is still up for discussion as to style points. look- let's put it in the perspective. the guy placed 2 bolts and then pre-placed all the gear. in fact he made it into sort of bastardized sport climb. the climb is graded 13d (again- unconfirmed- one might ask what other routes of that grade did he climb in the past?). 13d or 8b sport is not that high for sport climbing. i think it's probably great personal achievement, however i don't think it doesn't warrant a write up on pages of "Hot Flashes". simply if magazines start writing about every 8b, even in the US, it will be virtually impossible to sift through the mountain of bullshit. historically editors at "climbing" did a really shitty job of checking the stories and were notorious for publishing and promoting what boils down to a complete spray of their self-adoring circle jerk clownpunchers. looks like they are back to their old form Dewd - This is a alot of time and energy worrying about the small details of meaningless junk. Elitism spray is everywhere in every sport. Let's go climbing and make up our own epics and FA's do you like litter? shit like that triggers in me the same reaction as seeing cigarette butts at the base of a climb. i think it also takes away from ascents like this: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pearsonthegroove/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 It looks like a cool line. Sometimes that all it's really about. He sent it in the style he chose. He hit the ground a couple of times. Not much more to say really. Do you read every article in the newspaper? Sometimes there's not much going on. I have an RSS feed from climbing.com and usually enjoy reading the little tidbits that pop up. TR's from around the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 I disagree. IMO the First Ascent is exactly that…..the first person to ascend the climb regardless of how. Then the First Free Ascent is the first person to send it on lead. Whether the gear is pre placed or not is still up for discussion as to style points. look- let's put it in the perspective. the guy placed 2 bolts and then pre-placed all the gear. in fact he made it into sort of bastardized sport climb. the climb is graded 13d (again- unconfirmed- one might ask what other routes of that grade did he climb in the past?). 13d or 8b sport is not that high for sport climbing. i think it's probably great personal achievement, however i don't think it doesn't warrant a write up on pages of "Hot Flashes". simply if magazines start writing about every 8b, even in the US, it will be virtually impossible to sift through the mountain of bullshit. historically editors at "climbing" did a really shitty job of checking the stories and were notorious for publishing and promoting what boils down to a complete spray of their self-adoring circle jerk clownpunchers. looks like they are back to their old form Relax brother……It is what it is……he has sent lots of 5.13 cracks…..I could care less if he placed two bolts and pre placed gear….I sure a hell am never going to climb the route. Should they have posted it on the web…..who knows and who cares….. I was just having a discussion with you about if it is a FA or an FFA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Pearson gritstone pic added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 it looks like a boulder problem to me, just get some people to drag a pad around for you if your only climbing 10ft off the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 I imagine it does look like a boulder problem if you have no idea what you're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 The guy said he didn't want to employ a team of spotters with pads so he pre-placed gear and a couple of bolts instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Wait - are we talking about the gritstone route, still? That's what I'm talking about. This is why I should never read spray threads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 i was talking about the roof crack looking like a boulder problem, he didnt want to employ a team of spotters so he pre placed gear and decked anyways. Thats like clipping bolts in the cave at the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 The guy said he didn't want to employ a team of spotters with pads so he pre-placed gear and a couple of bolts instead. They don't do bolts on grit, its against tradition. I think thats why Bob was impressed with the Pearson ascent. They do relentlessly toprope it, in that case it appears he did for 4 years before the lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 I dont really like putting up those routes where its all trad and then a random bolt in a tricky section, I like all bolts and maybe a couple cams but for some reason it bugs me when its all cams and then a bolt protected crux when it isnt really dangerous. I just had to say that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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