Marble Canyon: Yellow Brick Road

[JodoKast]

Does anyone have any Beta on this climb that they could share? Ive heard its fully protected (bolts) all the way to the top with a 20-bolt ladder about 2/3 the way up. I would like to know if its possible to climb this with only draws and step-aiders and what the walk-off after is like. Any Beta would be greatly appreciated!

[dberdinka]

I really liked this climb. However someone else from around here nearly died on it when part of the wall fell off they were underclinging. Carpe Diem.

 

Its about 80% good rock and 20% chossy, the 5.10 cruxes generally being a bit chossy. It's probably 60% bolts and 40% gear, you'll need a full rack to 4". The bolt ladder is long, 20-25+ bolts and slightly overhung. Aiders and a daisy were nice, the second got by without jugs. Yop need jugs. The start is kind of hard to find if I recall, but once on route you can't loose it.

 

Descent was a real nice walk down a squishy forest gully, easy on the knees.

 

The topo in that little rock guide is absolutely spot on with neccesary details.

 

Trip Report

Edited February 28, 2008 by dberdinka

[G-spotter]

Bring double ropes so that when rockfall chops one you can cut it up for slings and rappel off using the other one.

[G-spotter]

Also I would note than in the first 8 pitches (until you get to the crux pitches and bolt ladder) there is a total of 1 bolt and 1 fixed bong.

[jordop]

Wonder if I should have retired that cam . . . Hmmm.

[AlpineK]

I'm glad you guys brought that trip up. I instantly thought of that event when the subject of conditions on Yellow Brick Road came up.

[G-spotter]

BTW Guy Edwards freed the bolt ladder at around 12- back in the mid-90s.

[Blake]

Anyone have a link to the near-death TR?

[Don_Serl]

jodo,

good route. good rock where it counts, despite the near miss drew and partner suffered. good pro where the rock is dubious. but i don't know where u got the idea it's all bolt protected - you need a full rock rack.

i took notes in the guide (Central BC Rock) after our climb - here's a bit of beta:

* good description in guide; good photos on pgs 134-135.

* there's an old belay 2/3 of the way up p3 - skip it.

* the 10c on p6 is in a right-facing corner, and the rock is not the best. but there's good gear... and i think i pulled on a piece here.

* the 1st half of the bolt ladder is very steep, probably gently overhanging in part. and pretty featureless. i had heard that Guy had freed it, and frankly i can't imagine how.

* we belayed short at the "cave on bolt ladder" noted in the guide to maintain communication.

* janez freed the angling 2nd half of the ladder at 11+ - i had to french-free a couple points.

* we did not use Jumars - we had light 3-step aiders, and the 2nd just followed by clipping up. there's not much aid, so this worked fine.

* belay 9 (our 10) is left of a tree. there is an off-route bolt above and left - the 'true' route passes a 2nd tree to the "arching crack".

* my notes say that belay 11 (our 12) was hard to find - "move right".

* the correct line on the 10b face was "inobvious" - up a hidden corner.

* we travelled 80m on p12, and passed further horizontally left than shown in the guide before climbing 5th class to the high point (our belay 14). then we traversed and descended to belay again (4th class). finally we reached the skyline for our 16th belay. and kept the rope on for 2 final lengths to the top (we were hot, tired, dehydrated, and not at our best).

* it was late and in oncoming darkness we went too far west beyond the great gully and missed the top of the north gully descent. the result was a night out (with a crackling fire). study the photo on page 124 well.

good luck,

cheers,

[G-spotter]

Lyle Knight and partner recently climbed a variation finish that avoids the traverse left near the top in favor of 3 new pitches straight up. contact Lyle for details.