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Posted

I like 'Blackberry Jam' at Rocky Butte and 'Free for Some' at Beacon - but really, you could pretty much have a go at almost anything that doesn't have big blank spots in it. Even then, that would be simulating aid climbing with interspersed free climbing in it. Experiencing stepping out of your aiders to resume free climbing shouldn't be missed as it's part of the real deal.

 

All the usual books like 'FoTH', 'Climbing Big Walls', or just punch "aid climbing" into Amazon and Google. Good luck...

Posted

almost all the .10 routes at beacon are great for aiding - that's the only way i've gotten through parts of almost all of them!!! seriously, pretty much all of the south face routes follow continious (albeit often very small) cracks and are therefore perfect. might as well learn solo aiding at the same time or bring a hell of a lot of dope for your poor belayer...

 

and, as w/ most climbing, how much do you really need an instruciton manual? a big rack and a will to scare yourself will go along way...

Posted

If you are starting out, the man-made west facing wall below the roadway at the very top of Rocky Butte is a great place to go. Set a toprope off a car or a no parking sign, walk to the base and clip in a grigri, and you can solo toprope without a partner. The wall is about 25 feet tall, with loads of C1 placements. Right in town, and a handy training spot - for alkost any sort of climbing. I have a few sessions here to dust off some skills before I go to Zion for the real thing.

 

- johngo

Posted
Does anyone have any good suggestions for learning aid... any good books? Good spots near PDX to practice?

 

what kind of gear do you have, any hooks? what is your experience with aid? i think "ground zero" @ beacon is a great beginners aid route that is if you have had C1 experience. What are your short term and long term goal?

Posted

To all,

thanks for all the info, I'm an avid trad climber but basically a nOOb when it comes to aid. I feel aid and big walls is the next step! It seems like something that I'd really enjoy, especially since I'm addicted to buying gear and I think I'd like the problem solving and technical aspects of the gear. The exposure that's achievable is inticing, although crapping into a tube not so much...

Thanks for the tips on beginner routes nearby. I have little aid gear as of yet, I was hoping to do more research to figure out what I really want long-term. I'd be open to any suggestions!

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