Leashless Tools

[Lub]

I need to get some new tools, and I'm planning on getting a leashless pair. I've used the BD Reactors, but have not had a chance to use any others.

 

Anyone have any experience w/ the Grivel's? Are the X-Monster's as lame as they are cheap?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The x monsters are very fun to climb on, but their picks are still a bit thick for delicate ice. On mixed they are fun, but it takes some time to get used to the lateral springiness. For the money, especially on sale, they are good tools. I also think in many ways think they are better than my quarks for alpine.

[G-spotter]

I also think in many ways think they are better than my quarks for alpine.

 

like for shaft plunging?

[studklimer]

I'm not sure if this is what your looking for, but the new BD Vipers and Cobras both come equiped to be leashless, or used with android leashes. I own the vipers, and like them a lot, for both leashless and leashed climbing. And you can attach umbilicals to either pair.

[Lub]

I had a pair of the old cobras, just sold them for a nice chunk of cash today. I liked them, but they were too heavy. And the new ones are too expensive. I'm not sure about the new vipers. I've looked at them, but they didn't feel that great.

[Farrgo]

Since your in Bozeman you should be able to get into the canyon and bum rides on your friends's tools. This is the best way to figure out what you like.

 

If alpine isn't your game than I would look seriously at the reactors, fusions (if you ad hammers and laser picks), ergo quarks, and nomics. IMO these tools with fully ergonomic handles are less pumpy than retro-jobs and a couple of them are a huge step up in m-ability.

[coug4]

Bozeman? I'd recommend going to the Ice festival before you buy. Demo's abound.

 

http://www.montanaalpineguides.com/bozemanicefestival/

 

Fusion and Nomic would be my pick (er, choice) for leashless. Everyone I know who has tried the Nomic is a believer; expen$ive but worth it. I thought the Monster's had a an unsettling twang on impact, not the thunk. If you think alpine is in your future check out Camp's Awax.

 

Grip and swing are a personal choice so don't buy without trying. You can rent from Barrel too; I know they had Monsters there last year.

 

Livin' in Bozeman so pm me if you want to get out this winter. Chompin' at the bit right now...

[Lub]

Yeah, the ice fest is good for the demos, but it's a ways away and expensive. I'm getting a bit anxious to get out, hopefully, this weekend.

 

I'll be out of the country in January, so my season will be short this year.

 

My only initial interest in the x monsters is the cheap factor. I could replace my old tools w/o any extra expense. It's just been hard to find any info about them.

 

Thanks for the help.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I also think in many ways think they are better than my quarks for alpine.

 

like for shaft plunging?

 

actually, compared to quarks with a pinky rest, i think in certain conditions x-monsters do plunge better. Better spike and pretty narrow cross section.

[John Frieh]

Lub: are you planning on just one set of tools or more?

 

If one: do you plan on pounding pins?

[Lub]

One set of tools for now, and I don't plan on pounding any pins in the near future.

[John Frieh]

So as someone pointed out earlier you can go leashless on any pair of tools. I'm guessing when you say leashless you mean a double handle design (right?)...

 

If you are planning on any alpine in the future and since you are only getting one set I would recommend something that doesn't have the double handle design but does have at least a fang... if it has an upper position (BD calls it the strike) even better.

 

Tools would work for this include:

BD Cobra, Viper

Petzl Quark, Aztar

Grivel Alp Wing, Light Wing

 

I'm likely forgetting a few but you get the idea.

 

If you want the double handle design and dont want to pound pins I think the nomic swings best of all the double handle tools on the market.

 

The BD reactor swings "more naturally" that the BD fusion but if you spend a lot of time on your tools you will learn to swing whatever you purchase.

 

The quark ergo swings better than the fusion but not as good as the reactor IMO. Again... time on your tools will fix that.

 

And FYI the new cobra is much much lighter than the old cobra. It is actually almost identical weight to the quark. And speaking of weights the flat grivel tools (monster, x monster, etc) are some of the heaviest tools on the market. I would say make yourself a list of tools/weights and compare them.

 

I will likely be in Bozeman this month before the fest so if you want to demo

 

nomics

quarks

fusions

reactors

cobras

and maybe vipers

 

get a hold of me (PM me your info).

[p_tapley]

hey lub - my two cents on what sets these tools apart is that they all have an ideal angle for peak performance.

 

consider the geometry, using the handle portion of the shaft as your plum line and relating it to the tip of the pick - make sense? tools like the fusion, ergo, nomic, etc. have a higher angel between the handle and the pick. becuase of this, they offer more positive hooking and really shine on angles past vertical. tools with a lesser angle tend to swing more "naturally" and give less fits on lower angle terrain or when turning bulges.

 

for 99% of our local climbing, tools in the latter catagory fit the bill best. a hammer is a huge plus with local routes in mind too...even if you're not slamming iron today, chances are, if you hang around here for long, you will be soon.

 

one last thought: if the fest is too much money, consider checking out this gig. it is a little later, but free and I'll have a stack of tools to test drive if you'd like.

 

-cheers

 

 

[selkirk]

You might consider the Grivel tech wings too. They have a standard shaft (non-ergo/leashless), they could take an upper trigger and have a fang, but the shaft has a more aggressive shape than most non-ergo/leashless tools.

 

[Lub]

Hey, thanks for the info.

 

I actually just picked up the reactors today. I've used them before, and I dig them. I guess I can't go wrong with a sure thing. I'm going to go swing them tomorrow!