Lanyards?

[mike1]

I don't quite have $0.02 so consider this my $0.01. I have always used my wrist leashes, though I did tether my hammer on one particularly rotten climb. (I used the shock cord system attached to the wrist leash and harness. If it was inhibiting me, I don’t remember. I think the whole climb was inhibiting, reminding me of what it must be like to climb vertical slush. I remember my partner almost threw up at the top of that climb. Good times... Anyway I can't see a enough justification yet for ME going leash-less (let alone justifying it to my wife!), but you all have at it!

[Choada_Boy]

With nothing better to do, I ditched the biners I started with and got myself a pair of these:

 

The Black Diamond "Micron" key chain biner! Wicked light, and the perfect size. I got three, the third I will pull test to failure or 300lbs, whatever comes first. They look stronger than my swivel regardless, and none of this is meant to support much more than body weight, so perhaps by building a deliberately weak system, I'll be preventing myself from cheating.

[dbb]

Choosing a method to tether your tools when going leashless seems obvious to me. The spring lanyards, short and with shock cord, are great. They don't tangle much at all (have you tried a springy tether with a swivel Don?) and minimally affect the swing. Some may disagree with the swing affect, but it doesn't bother me. For most single pitch cragging it seems reasonable to climb without any tether.

 

On the topic of using leashes at all, I think Eric hit it just right: it depends on your strength and skill level.

 

For waterice, going leashless means committing to hanging on for the whole ride up the pitch. It is a lot more like steep rock climbing where technique will help, but you need to have a base level of strength and endurance. The leashless climber needs to understand that requirement before starting up a pitch, instead of relying on leashes to save them when they pump. I think this is why some folks feel that leashless climbing is more "pure" (whatev). It's also why it can be dangerous pushing your limits in the WI4-5 range leashless.

 

In the alpine, it is great to be able to place and let go of your tools when mixed climbing. Over the shoulder, into ice or in a crack, it allows you to grab a rock hold, or shake out and place gear. Dangling tools has always felt cumbersome to me. With tethers, this is easy. That said, Don has climbed way more alpine climbs than all of us put together. but to each his own

 

 

 

[Marko]

that dual method of MB's sounds a bit suspect somehow.

 

Only because it is...

 

Sincerely,

"...yocal lardman Mark Bunker..."