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Posted

Howdy all,

 

I've eyed some cliffs near Hoodoo many a time and wondered "Do those things ever ice up?". Was at Cougar (terwilleger) hot springs the other day, good access year round but only 1,700' but with wind off the dam it looked possible that some drips could come in around there. Maybe some spray off the waterfall by the parking lot?

 

Anyway, I live in Central Oregon and I ice climb - so obviously I'm frustrated. Anybody know if it's possible to get to Proxy falls in winter? Everything would be strong cold snap dependent of course but for god sakes... something... anything... maybe I should see about farming in meat locker or something :( HELP!!!

 

-Scotty

 

ps. yes tumalo, paulina, strawberries... I know... but is there anything else?

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Posted

Scotty, I lived up near McKenzie Bridge for four years and never spotted any ice near the reservoir. There was a Merle Haggard look-alike that guarded the dam in his el camino and probably would pick any one off that tries to climb it. Your best bet would be on the east side.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
yes there is!

it is seldom reliable though. Some worth mentioning..

 

crater creek running off the broken top plateu has some good pitches. Early Bird WI2/3,Sins with Twins and Seldom Seen WI 4/5, right of sins with twins WI4 is very reliable- third pitch down from the top. The top one (Early Bird) is almost always in, the next two down are better though. I would ski upto the plateu from dutchman and then head down to try and find the highest pitch. It is hard to find (and I suspect im the only one who has found/climbed these) so you will probably need a quad topo of the area. the top most falls are close to a trail which should be shown on the map and originates at Green Lakes trailhead (not the falls creek trail). Sometimes there is too much snow to get to this place but it is awsome on a good year. All day ordeal too.

 

Cougar bluff (on your right to Tumalo falls) has some mixed lines but I have never done them. I think they are to the right mostly. And there is topropabe stuff usually on the right of the falls.

 

Also Cougar Slayer WI3/M2 is a fun, although thin and hard to protect, climb that is on the steepest right-hand part of the bluff by the Hoodoo ski area.

 

Ice is hard to find around Bend but just keep exploring and you might find some more. (let me know if you do :) )

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