[TR] Lembert Dome - Cry in Time Again 9/11/2007

[Otto]

Trip: Lembert Dome - Cry in Time Again

 

Date: 9/11/2007

 

Trip Report:

Mesdosch and I got to Tuolumne in the afternoon, having driven in comfort and style after the luxury of a hot shower in a fine hotel. We immediately climbed a middling route on Medlicott Dome called The Middling. We must have been overamped, as John took a middling fall off the first pitch. Happily, he regrouped and scummed up the mighty 5.7 and we made it to the top. No pictures of that one, sorry. We retired to set up camp in Porcupine Flat.

 

Next day we moved up to Lembert Dome and got on Cry In Time Again. Things started out well enough. I led the first pitch of slab, shaking the nervous willies loose. We were definitely on-route for most of the second pitch. But partner ended up too far left at an anchor not on my mental picture of the topo. As I led up the third pitch I spied some nice old bolts with those foldy looking stamped hangers. They were even further to the left, two of them. I clipped them, figured I was way off-route, and started some 5.10 traversing rightward. Plugged in my smallest TCU vertically in a flaring rotten flake. Moved up eight feet, tried to switch feet, and crumbled a nubbin underfoot. I went flying down, yelling "Help! uh, Falling!". Ripped out the TCU and held up, some time later, on the fine old 5/16" with a Leeper hanger. This piece took some weight before it pulled:

 

I don't care what anybody says, I love Leeper hangers! Estimated 30' fall, took awhile to shake it off. Ended upside-down with head in arms, having watched the ledge rush up. Assessed the heel bruise and skin loss. Partner calmly handed me my glasses. I gathered the other fallen gear which had ripped off a broken gear loop and set off. With steely resolve, I made the moves back to the flake and set the next size cam in a slightly better spot. Then across the same knobs, this time with less faulty technique. Back on route, hoorah!

 

Later we found out the two old bolts were on the third pitch of the next route to the left, Motivated by Food, 5.10a.

 

The 00 Metolius did its job well. Now the axle has taken on a pleasing arc. However, it's cams won't move. Having lived a short but fulfilling life, the happy retiree rests in a box in the basement.

[Sol]

my buddy has a 00 tcu hold a 12 ft fall on freeway. it umbrellad, broke two cam stops, and sheared 1/3 of one lobe off, and held! amazing stuff those small cams.

 

 

[Otto]

Wow! Yeah, I'd like to see that. Mine would have held if I could get it in deeper. Unless the flake opened up...

[hefeweizen]

Props for going back the way you came and finishing after a scary fall.

[Stefan]

However, it's cams won't move. Having lived a short but fulfilling life, the happy retiree rests in a box in the basement.

 

Nice little lucky charm you have there.