Solo lead rope climbing

[Lowlander]

Sometimes been a little short on climbing partners so I end up getting out by myself for some alpine. I'd like to get a decent route in so I've been climbing some 5.7 alpine climbs with a rope. I'm curious to know what other people's techniques are.

When I am not comfortable to solo unroped on the climb anymore, I build an upward pull anchor, put the rope through a gri-gri on my harness and then pay out as I climb and place pieces. At the end of the rope, I anchor it, rap down, clean the bottom anchor, and then clean as I climb back up with the rope through my gri gri.

The technique seems to work well. At least well enough. I am comfortable to solo 5.7's at crags, but not when I am by myself out a couple of hours from anywhere. So this technique works for me, but paying out the rope from my gri-gri as I am climbing is the most annoying part.

Anyone out there got some other ideas?

 

[JosephH]

Talk to me about roped solo climbing...

[DRep]

with the grigri, just make sure you're using a rope at 10mm or above, the grigri has trouble biting on anything smaller than 10mm. I witnessed an accident at a local crag, the 9.5mm rope didn't catch, the belayer thought it would, but it didn't and the guy decked. Anywho, soloing is a blast!!

[ivan]

wayne wallace's the celebrity guru of solo alpine climbing round here too, so if you specific questions you might be well advised to pm him as he's like, nice n' stuff, and would probably be stoked to help out...

[wayne]

Thanx but ,I wish it were simple. It is a long tedious apprenticeship on "How to not screw yourself up as you learn".

Of all the devises though, I prefer the soloist. All devises are pains in the rear. Best just to free-solo.

[Lowlander]

Thanks guys, I'll check into the soloist. I've seen it and heard of it but never really looked into it. I don't mind free soloing either, just been a little wet lately in the alpine.

Dave- As for the gri-gri, I lead all my sport climbs on a 9.5 Infinity rope and never had it slip.

[ketch]

So Lowlander, it's good to know you sport with a 9.5. I use one as well. And I do a fair amount of lead solo. I use a GriGri with modification and like it. I would strongly recomend thinking carefully about your statement. Just what exactly does lead sport have to do with lead solo?

 

I know my Gri will work when I am there tending it or some other compatent belayer. Now, if one take a whipper when solo (especially when a ways from help) it is best to stack the deck in your favor as your probably not going to be focused on good self belay skills in mid-air.

 

Just a thought. If you want to talk about the system I use for lead solo give me a PM

[ivan]

Best just to free-solo.

ha! i'm so stupid (and impoverished) i figured that was my only option a long time ago - new pairs of underwear are cheaper than soloists at any rate

[DRep]

Thanks guys, I'll check into the soloist. I've seen it and heard of it but never really looked into it. I don't mind free soloing either, just been a little wet lately in the alpine.

Dave- As for the gri-gri, I lead all my sport climbs on a 9.5 Infinity rope and never had it slip.

 

Yeah, I do too actually and it hasn't happened to me, but when lead soloing with a grigri I want to know for sure that it is going to catch so I use a 10.2mm. Take Wayne's advice and go with the soloist, it really is easier.

[Lowlander]

Point taken gentlemen. Think I'll check out the soloist before buying a new rope. Closet is getting too full of gear. Thanks.

[JosephH]

Many competent folks like Wayne use a Soloist, and recently a Canadian used one to rope-solo Astroman, but you should be aware they may not hold upsidedown falls or even falls where you only go horizontal. Particularly stay off climbs with low cruxs where, if the Soloist fails, slack and rope stretch may allow you to deck despite using a backup knot. I know of one person who decked in such a situation after falling and going just horizontal and was considerably worse for the wear. Given he routinely free solos 11+, he would have been way better off without a rope on the climb he decked from roped soloing with a Soloist. I'm personally sticking with the Eddy as I despise having anything on my chest or any linkage between my chest and harness.

[chris]

Thanx but ,I wish it were simple. It is a long tedious apprenticeship on "How to not screw yourself up as you learn".

Of all the devises though, I prefer the soloist. All devises are pains in the rear. Best just to free-solo.

Hey Wayne, on Mongo Ridge, what was your technique for the bits you rope-soloed?

[wayne]

I set a bomber, and multi directional base anchor. Pins are great here. Took out some shock by attaching my pack weight to it. Roped up with the device on a 40 foot knot leash as a back up. Re-tying it a few times up the pitch. Following sucked with the pack and jugs, I wanted to free it on tr but had to tighten the slack out or screw up.The pitches had too many flakes to haul the pack. I avoided dozens of leads by free-soloing up to 5.9.I only roped up on 3 pitches. It was a nice break from climbing with a pack.

[JosephH]

I agree with Wayne that all devices and methods of roped soloing basically suck from the hassle factor. But, if you can get a method down cold and efficient that works for you it is possible to break through to a different realm with it. I don't have the "getting somewhere on a timetable" type of objectives that Wayne seems to enjoy, but I do genuinely enjoy getting in a bunch of pitches of stuff. And when I have it dialed in there isn't much that's more sublime than it and it goes about a 1/3 faster than climbing with most partners.