first ascent [TR] Cutthroat Wall - Easy Getaway (F.A. III 5.10-) 8/29/2007

[Billygoat]

Fuck yeah!

 

Billygoat Bluff...has a nice ring to it (kinda like Billygoat Gruff)

 

But I only told you and Layton and showed NYC007, Fern and Julie and a couple friends that don't post, so don't lay that shit on me!

 

You're the one who sprayed it on the interwebs mother

 

(about time )

 

[Crack]

Climbed this last week, inspired by this TR...as advertised,it had great rock, great climbing and plenty of pine needles. We (I) was having difficulty staying enroute so by the third pitch decided to just go wherever. From time to time we recognized features from both routes and figure we climbed a line somehwere in between them. The grade stayed consistent and every pitch seemed to get better than the previous one -though the last pitch was an easy scramble. We backed up an old yellow sling for a short descent gully rappel.

 

We schwacked in and out from an old road leaving the TH right away (before the bridge) -it took about an hour or so and was fairly simple and easy as far as bushwacking and approaches go.

 

Wondering if we missed a better trail that locals use -we did find a cairn going in and coming out marking where to leave the road, but nothing else. Hard to imagine it doesn't get more traffic.

[mthorman]

Just did this route last weekend and it was awesome! We climbed it on Saturday of Labor Day weekend and never saw another party......didn't know that was possible up on WA Pass! We followed the beta in Blake's new book Cascades Rock. I found the topo in the book to be very accurate. We followed it pretty much exactly as described and found the belay's to be great locations and rope drag manageable. The quality of the rock was very good with the exception of the the middle of pitch 4 through a couple of roofs. We were able to trundle all the loose blocks in that area but there is still some crumbly rock. I climbed up past the Zebra wall all the way to the top roof and then traversed out which was awesome but felt more 5.10 than 5.9. The next pitch up the open book hand crack was the money pitch and the chimney off-width was thought provoking. Honestly there weren't any "dud" pitches and the climbing was fairly sustained at grade. What surprised me most was how much slabby face climbing there was on the 1st couple pitches. Seriously this is a classic climb!

 

Approach Beta

When you are following the old road don't cut up the hill at all the rock carins. We did on the way and the trail quickly disappeared and left us in thick brush and much too far climber's left. Instead just keep following the trail until you reach a creek. Before crossing the creek turn left uphill and follow it up to the basin above. Keep the creek close by on the right until you reach the open treed area. Passed this you reach a large slide alder section from old avalanches. If you stay right on the edge there is a pretty decent trail that you can follow all the way up to just below the boulder field. A few more easy boulder hoping and you are right at the base of the climb with very little bushwacking. We found this on the way down and it was WAY better than the route we came up.

 

Decent Beta

Once above the chimney on the last "real" pitch there is still a full rope length of 4th class scrambling to the route. Make sure you go all the way to the big flat slab before trying to rappel down to the right. We knocked all the numerous loose blocks off the rappel and the anchor cord looked in good condition. From the end of the rappel we hiked up the gully a hundred feet then crossed it on a decent ledge to the treed ridge. From here it was an easy hike down the ridge contouring skier's left to the main low angle gully system. No nasty scree down climbing necessary.