Wind Mountain

[cycling_mike]

Every time I cruise through the gorge I look up at the West face of Wind Mtn and think about giving it a go. Does anyone know of any routes up there? I'm sure someone has checked it out at least...

[billcoe]

Long time ago we did some above the private land (just west of where you are looking probably). I think it was my friend John Petrosky who mentioned somebody being shot at there for traspassing, so I didn't go back, although I did go over there a couple of years back and it looks the same (looks like someone damn near lives there).

 

There are some routes on both sides, I think Tim Olsen may list a few in his book "Portland Rock Climbs".

 

Hey Mike, when you showing up to show us how hard your pulling these days ya fu*king loner? I may have a route you can try here in a bit.

 

Link to PDX climbers hook up thread here

[JBD]

Wayne Haack and I along with a few others (Charlie Priest, John Tyerman) worked on a route heading for the big corner high on buttress facing West???. (mid 70's) A number of attempts with lots of poison oak, bad rock, moss climbing and soiled pants but we never made it to the corner. Somebody should retrieve our gear.

JBD

[billcoe]

Wayne Haack and I along with a few others (Charlie Priest, John Tyerman) worked on a route heading for the big corner high on buttress facing West???. (mid 70's) A number of attempts with lots of poison oak, bad rock, moss climbing and soiled pants but we never made it to the corner. Somebody should retrieve our gear.

JBD

 

Holy shit you're old. Opps, did I say that out loud?

 

Have not seen Wayne for maybe 30 years.

 

Good story! Whats your real name?

 

Welcome to CC.com BTW

 

-Bill

[wayne]

The corner route was finally climbed by Steve Elder, solo. in 94. Earlier that year I took an 80 foot fall , 400feet up while not on belay. Tim Olson was putting in a base of pitch belay and I was impatient. so I moved up 40 feet. The whole section of rock around me collapsed and he grabbed the rope as it and I sailed by.

[billcoe]

The corner route was finally climbed by Steve Elder, solo. in 94. Earlier that year I took an 80 foot fall , 400feet up while not on belay. Tim Olson was putting in a base of pitch belay and I was impatient. so I moved up 40 feet. The whole section of rock around me collapsed and he grabbed the rope as it and I sailed by.

 

Holy F*en shit Wayne, this must be the story how Tim saved your life? You didn't land on any ledges or get hurt?

 

BTW, in case anyone is interested or knows Jim, Jim Davis posted above Wayne about Wayne Haack. Welcome to the forum Jim, one of of the nicest, bestest dudes around, still climbing hard, and one of the person's responsible for getting me into climbing.

 

Jim rules!

[Winter]

getting shot at, unprotectable choss, big whippers - you guys make this sounds like a fun day out.

[wayne]

The Indians considered the mountain cursed

 

[ols]

Wind Mtn...the saga continues...You might want to join the Bad Rock Climbing Association first before venturing on this raw vertical terrain.If any nice rock exists, it is usually layered with considerable amounts of loose rock & moss that will keep you on edge. Not a likely place where tourists would ask, "How do you git them ropes up there?"1. Always wear a helmet.2. Never expect good rock.3. The boulderfield approach can cut loose some really BIG ones, so be careful.4. Avoid the place when it is windy.5. Avoid the place if you hesitate, whether in town, or on the approach, or on the climb.6. It is usually better to let someone else climb on the Wind, and just tell you about it later, risk free!Other than that, Wind Mtn. is sort of a feasible chunk of junk to climb on if you are accustomed to the typical nasty Gorge stuff...and I am really stretchin' it just trying to say that much.We climbed on Workman's Comp/Lost Wages for about 5 pitches (some full pitch and some half pitch leads) today, the hardest section might be about 5.8 stemming up out of the vertical walled cave. Much of the grind is 4th or easy 5th class climbing. One hour approach with some poison oak to contend with. Expect a bit of a challenge finding the initial ravine portion of the Workman's Comp route. Expect runout sections on all pitches where the leader does not fall. Set all belays under or behind an obstacle to protect your belayer. We expanded the height of the route today, also. It now continues another 50' to a small ledge up right from last years anchor. This line may eventually continue up to the huge roof. Gear rack: Minor rack of nuts and cams to 3". Some thin pitons and angle pins. Small cams needed especially on the new upper slice.Our line of ascent is not the Elder route (which is a long crack system that lands in the prominent central gully). We are slightly left of the Elder route directly on the main west face that has a very massive fir tree about 1/2 way up in a large ravine system.Route Specs:Route Name: Workman's Comp/Lost Wages. Seen less than 1/2 dozen ascents.The photos as shown (1-5): 1. Leading the 3rd pitch crux (5.5). 2. Sorting gear and hanging flags. 3. Prayer flags up and running. 4. Mike in the vertical walled entrance to the cave. 5. In the cave. 6. At the giant tree rappel.

[billcoe]

Whoa: full value day! Thanks for the look at it too.