one or two ice axes

[jackthenewb]

another newb question but in what conditions would I need 2 Ice axed and in which conditions would I only need 1?

[catbirdseat]

When two axes are needed, as on steep ice, specialized axes are used. These are referred to as ice tools. They are shorter than the standard ice axe and are different in other ways. The ice axe is used for glacier and snow travel. One can self-arrest using an ice axe, but it would be difficult with an ice tool.

[genepires]

2 tools would be needed when the slope is steep enough for piolet traction or for the daggering techniques. that angle is relative but most would start daggering at 35 degree slope angle. daggering on 20 degrees slopes is just awkward. ice that is too hard for daggering can be climbed with piolet anchor (one tool) technique. Traction (standard steep ice technique) works well at >60 degrees.

 

a full description of these different techniques can be found in freedom of hills or most other ice climbing instructional books.

Edited August 26, 2007 by genepires

[studklimer]

1 axe if it's steep or hard enough that you might need to self arrest if you fall.

2 tools if its steep ice, I don't usually use 2 until about 45 degrees, or if its like 35 degrees and plastic water ice (almost never, cuz we live in the PNW

[Alpaholic]

Or one mountaineering axe and one ice tool if you want to be able to self arrest, save some weight AND climb a little steep section where you would be using piolet traction...too much info? This setup seems to work for people on the Kautz, Lib. Ridge in certain conditions (although that's not really a *little* steep section) and similar...

[tvashtarkatena]

One option is to carry a fairly light second tool with a curved shaft and reverse curved pick, rather than a full blown ice tool, which tend to be heavier and more expensive. BD and other companies make them in the 1 lb range. The curved shaft will allow more secure daggering when gripping the shaft and a straight one (more comfy for a longer period, no bashed knuckles). In steeper, neve/ice terrain, you'll be self belaying. Self arrest probably isn't possible should you get any momentum going.