[TR] Anderson Range, BC - Springbok Arete, Les Cor

[tlinn]

Trip: Anderson Range, BC - Springbok Arete, Les Cornes and SE ridge, Ibex

 

Date: 8/24/2007

 

Trip Report:

This has been a pretty lucky summer for me because many of my best climbing friends have been on holidays, unemployed, underemployed, or all of the above. This has made trip organization pretty easy and flexible, so when high pressure finally rolled in on a Tuesday I had Krystil, Nick and Richard at my doorstep in Hope. I have been living the student life but I've been trying to make some money working for my dad part time this summer. It's pretty nice to have such a flexible schedule!

 

I had only been to the Anderson once previously. This was 4 years ago when my dad and I went to day trip the North Buttress of Chamois and got a late start from the cars. Half way up the route we were caught in a downpour and finished the route, climbing the last 6 pitches through a waterfall. Needless to say this was a terrible day in the mountains, one that I still remember as the worst ever but I was impressed with the area and wanted to come back.

 

Nick had been talking about this route for a while and he sparked my interest again a few weeks previously in Squamish on a sunny afternoon of climbing. I was also keen so we decided it would be now or never. After all, I had to find out whether a year of studying in Toronto had turned me soft (what Krystil would call an alpine baby).

 

Because we had a few days on our hands to enjoy the area we thought we'd try camping at the Steinbok-Ibex col. This would give us a few options for climbs on the first day to warm up for Springbok Arete. We started a little late on the Tuesday the 24th so by the time we reached the col and melted snow for dinner it was pretty late. We were thinking of climbing Drew's Proof is in the Pudding route the next day but by the time we went to bed we decided that we wanted to have a nice sleep in/relaxation day so we could snooze on the rocks and enjoy the spectacular scenery. We decided that the southeast ridge of Ibex would fit the bill quite nicely. It's hard to find better views then the Steinbok-Ibex col. Steinbok is right in front of you and there are breathtaking views of Urquhart, Baker, the Old Settler, Slesse, Silvertip, Redoubt, and just about everything else in the North Cascades.

 

The southeast ridge had some great climbing. Krystil and I climbed together and Nick climbed with Rich. We left camp around 10:30 and were on top a few hours later napping and taking in the views. I was impressed by some of the granite domes around Vicuna, Llama and Alpaca. It was also nice to get a break from the swarms of mosquitos at the Steinbok-Ibex col. That night Krystil and Richard decided to move their camp back down to the road so that they could climb the North Buttress of Chamois. I felt sorry for them thrashing through the alder. If I was them I would gone over the top of Ibex, over the top of Chamois, through the Anderson Mountain-Chamois col and then climbed the North Buttress of Chamois, just to avoid that alder. If someone wants to drop napalm on that valley I would gladly support them. The slide alder jungle sucks ass down low.

 

The next morning it was time for the business!!! Nick and I left camp at 4:30 and hiked down to the route. We had scouted out an approach option the day before and we decided to go for it so we didn't have to drop down and around the rock ridge that runs halfway between Steinbok and Les Cornes. While heading down through the notch everything was going well until I slipped on some loose rocks and landed on my left hand. I was left with quite a gash but the band-aids did the trick and I was back moving in a few minutes.

 

Our next challenge was beginning the rock climb itself. There was a large moat and snow patch blocking the first pitch. Once we crossed the moat we had to contend with a big block of snow choking the first pitch. First I tried going right up and around the patch but the rock was some of the worst gravel/kitty litter I had ever seen. It was wet and the holds were ripping off under my feet. I was not willing to run it out on that kind of wet kitty litter and there were no guarantees we could get around this way anyway, so I decided to come back down and climb around to the left. I went under a snow overlap and started climbing between the rock and the snow. I placed a 4.5 camalot which seemed pretty solid. I continued upwards and I thought I could probably wiggle my way up between the snow and the rock. Unfortunately I got my helmet stuck as soon as I tried this and I had to un-do my chin strap to free my head. I decided to try moving further left onto the rock so I placed a piece of pro further out to my left and then moved out onto the rock. After a few run-out slab moves I got back on route above the snow. I felt a relief to at least be on the route but I knew things were just getting started. Pitch 2 climbed some of the best rock on the lower pitches climbing further up the ramp along corners and cracks. Pitch 3 was my lead again and I climbed up along a dike trying to place decent pro amongst the kitty litter. I belayed just above a couple trees.

 

The next pitch helped us save a tonne of time. Nick ran it out 70 meters on the rope and then we simul-climbed to the start of pitch 6. We stopped for a pee break here and had a bite to eat. The rock improved dramatically above this point. Pitch six was absolutely stellar moving between cracks and then finishing on steep jugs. I tried to link pitch 6 with pitch 7 but I wasn't sure I would have enough gear to set up a bomber belay below the first 5.10 pitch through the overhanging roof so I decided to belay at a couple of nice trees.

 

Nick led the next pitch up the awkward off-width to the base of the overhang and the start of the headwall pitches. From here on the climbing gets super exposed and every pitch is pretty sustained. The grades are pretty burly and strenuous, especially up the headwall. Pitch 8 was no exception and Nick had to work hard to protect it climbing above the belay. We were both very happy we had cams as big as #4.5 camalot (old sizing) or he would have been facing a bad fall onto the belay. From the top of this pitch I took Layton's beta and climbed straight up above the belay on the nice 5.10 finger crack linking the next pitch to get us to "two tree ledge." The pitch had some amazing climbing along a funky hand traverse with major exposure underneath and almost nothing for your feet. The holds are bomber but the exposure makes it one of the most memorable pitches on the route. Nick led the next pitch (the crux) in fine style above two tree ledge. I'm pretty sure he linked it with the next pitch which had some incredible, steep 5.9 crack climbing to the start of guidebook pitch 14. The climbing was still amazing and I worked my way up the hard layback flake to the slabs at the top of the pitch to a belay below a big roof. From there, Nick linked two more pitches of crack climbing, stopping just short of the top. I led one final short pitch to the summit where we sat, rested, and ate luch on top. The time was 3:30pm and the route had taken us 9 hours to climb in 12 pitches. I was pretty dehydrated because I drank most of my water after the first 6 pitches. I had had the company of a hummingbird at most of the belays on the way up. We were also visited by a very persistent bee that liked the orange/yellow design of Nick's rope. The mosquitos bothered us on the first few pitches but left us along once we reached the headwall.

 

The descent was not nearly as bad as we thought it was going to be. We were thinking of passing over the twin summits of Les Cornes and then climbing over Ibex to descend to our campsite. This looked like a great option from the top of Ibex the previous day but once we were on top of the route we saw that there was a huge chasm between Ibex and Les Cornes. You could rappel into it but it would be very difficult to climb back up towards Ibex. Instead we did the standard descent with the very fun "au cheval." We used a 7mm static tag line and our 70 meter dynamic. It worked well, there were no rope snags and we only had to back up one rappel anchor with fresh cord. It was refreshing to rappel through the waterfall and fill up our nalgenes on the way down too!

 

The next day we returned to the cars to meet our friends. We got pretty wet walking through the slide alder on the way out but it was good to hear about their day on Chamois. Especially while enjoying a sapporos. It's amazing how delicious warm beer is after a few good days in the mountains!

 

Our camp at the Steinbok-Ibex col

 

 

Krystil on the SE ridge of Ibex

 

 

Me on the last pitch of Ibex.

 

 

Richard rapping down the SE ridge of Ibex. Steinbok in background.

 

 

The headwall pitches of Springbok Arete from the approach to the Steinbok-Ibex col.

 

 

Crossing the moat at the base of the route. Note the rock ice axes.

 

 

Me at the belay for pitch 8.

 

 

Pulling through the overhang on pitch 8.

 

 

Me leading pitch 14 below the layback flake.

 

 

Nick seconding the slabby top part of pitch 14.

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Full rack to #4.5 camalot with doubles of mid-sizes.

 

Approach Notes:

Pick up a gate key from Cattermole Timber in Chilliwack. Drive 45 km north of Hope on Highway 1 until just past the Alexandria Bridge. Turn right 500 meters past the bridge onto the Anderson Mainline. Follow for 18km and go over a bridge across the Anderson River. Turn left and follow until road end at km 25. From here follow an overgrown road for 20 minutes until dropping right down across the river and onto other overgrown roads. Follow up through cut blocks until below the route and thrash up through the bush.

Edited August 22, 2007 by tlinn

[tlinn]

One more photo. This one is of the cool "au cheval." It's not that hard but very exposed!!!!

 

[pazzo]

wow, inspiring pics!! i've got my next trip planned...

[tyree]

Very nice TR! I had a blast when I was up there this year... the first few hunrded feet arent that good but the rest is stellar. Nice job guys!!!

[jordop]

Good stuff Ty! S-I col looks like a wicked camp!

[DRep]

soooo sick..... I almost puked. thats definitely on the tic list

[giza]

Wow that looks good!

[layton]

one of the best in the range WA or BC!

 

I've got pretty detailed beta from an old TR with Fern for those that want to do a search. Nice!