East Face Monkey Q

[luvshaker]

Looking for some beta on clean aiding on the East face of Monkey Face.

What is it rated for clean aid for starters? And how is the finish to the top?

Can't really trust Watts since he had to go freeing everthing.

Also, how does it compare to the North Face of Monkey for aiding?

 

Thanks

Lee

[fgw]

Tyler's beta page:

 

http://www.summitpost.org/route/278476/east-face.html

 

I've done the 1st pitch and it felt about C2. Small nuts mostly. I think P2 is the crux per description.

 

 

 

 

crack size (from comfort of my aiders of course):

Edited August 22, 2007 by fgw

[corvallisclimb]

north face is probably a bit easier than the east, so if youve done that you should be ready for the east...

[billcoe]

north face is probably a bit easier than the east, so if youve done that you should be ready for the east...

 

Agreed.

 

I'd think that the very start of P1 disturbs me a bit, as you can pancake if you pull even just a couple of pieces. Technically, the 2nd pitch is suppose to be harder, but there are a few great placements when you are directly above your belayer, and then it heads to the right, so less stress (my thinking anyway).

 

Finishing to the top is nothing to worry about.

 

All nuts, C3+, but easier now with newer gear, I still think it's C3. I have not climbed it using cam hooks or HB brass nuts though, but the west face seems to drop a full grade using them... so maybe Tylers C2 call is accurate.

 

If you're worried, just take some extra pro (it's small so it's light), and double it up (and even equalize it if you want) if you need to. Sure it's slower, but safer too.

 

[corvallisclimb]

All nuts, C3+, but easier now with newer gear, I still think it's C3. I have not climbed it using cam hooks or HB brass nuts though, but the west face seems to drop a full grade using them... so maybe Tylers C2 call is accurate.

 

 

Bill brings up a great point. Aid ratings are so subjective... I did some stuff in the Valley rated C3+ and found it to be way way mellower than some of the clean aid I've done at Smith rated around C3. Like the original first pitch of the PLW I had heard went clean at C3 or some bull shit like that... There I was 60 feet off the deck with nothing but a bunch of crap micro nuts so I nailed a beak and a LA. Shame shame I know... but if there really is such a thing as C3 I think it deserves an A2 rating along with it. I never once have felt the need to nail on the east face, nor had anything to nail. So mabey its just head games but to me real deal A3/C3 gets me scared to the point where I love welding pins, anything I feel I wasn't scared on is A2/C2 or below... Thanks for letting me rant about aid climbing

[luvshaker]

Thanks for the response.

There were plenty of placments on the NF of Monkey that wouldn't hold a short fall from this oversized climber. But, there was usually one or two below that would hold. Sounds like on the E face there can be a few in a row that may blow. That sounds about right for a C2+/C3 climb. Guess I'll have to go and see how scary it is. Ratings are subjective for sure, especailly trying to compare granite and mud. Twice on the N face I hesitated on a great cam hook, because it started to chizzle away at a sufficient nut placement and would have made it worse.

Good pics and beta appreciated.