Beacon Rock for the Young and the Rackless

[tjmcd]

I am looked for route recommendations at Beacon Rock. Unfortunately I don't own a trad rack. (I love climbing trad. It's just that all my regular climbing partners are already well stocked). Chance is taking me by Beacon Rock with some friends who I hope to convince to give climbing a try. I know Beacon is the scene of a few bolt wars, but I am hoping there are some beginner routes that are bolted. Are there any? It seems all the easy/moderate routes are trad. Sorry if I have offended someone's trad aethetics out there.

 

 

[kevbone]

but I am hoping there are some beginner routes that are bolted. Are there any?

 

Not really.....there are two sporto style routes, both run out and not for the truly beginner climber.

[tjmcd]

Thanks for the information. Maybe I can just go and stare wistfully up at the SE Face.

[Cobra_Commander]

There is a nice bolted line to the right of boardwalk that I would call "friendly". I think it's about 5.7-5.8. But that's about it.

 

There's also the first pitch of young warriors that is for some reason bolted. 5.8.

[tjmcd]

Would those be the runout ones kevbone mentioned? I'd be comfy leading a somewhat runout 5.7 - 5.8. That said, I think I should put some effort into acquiring a trad rack for the outing.

[Cobra_Commander]

The ones I mentioned are not runout at all, in my opinion. I believe Kevin is referring to Winter Delight and Fall Guy.

 

If you do decide to head up the se corner w/ a new rack be sure to extend everything. Your sport draws can quickly ruin your day.

 

 

[kevbone]

The ones I mentioned are not runout at all, in my opinion. I believe Kevin is referring to Winter Delight and Fall Guy.

 

If you do decide to head up the se corner w/ a new rack be sure to extend everything. Your sport draws can quickly ruin your day.

 

 

 

Actually those are the ones I am talking about......Winter Delight and The Fall Guy are hardly for the beginner climber.

 

The first pitch of YW....after the 5th bolt has a 30 foot section of no bolts.....and you are at least 10 feet out while clipping the last bolt and after you clip it.....another 30 feet to the anchor. That is....in my mind.....run out. Even though you and and I climb it with our eyes closed (due to years of laps on it).....it is not a good beginner climb. IMO.

 

and the climb to the right of board walk is another climb that the bolts are a little spaced out on......I dont think its scarry....but a new leader sure might.

[Cobra_Commander]

Fair enough, kevbone. tjmcd, as you can see, you might want to take a look for yourself and decide.

[tjmcd]

Thanks guys for the spray free help. Even if I can't put a trad rack together, I'd like to check out area. It looks like a special place.

[billcoe]

too much beta.

 

It's pretty much a total trad area. It is special. Sometimes in the winter, when the storms are a raging and it's not fit for man or beast, I'll go out and just hang out 20' up on a ledge or under a dry boulder. It's definatly special.

 

Timcj, when will you be out there? Maybe you can hook up with some local and run up a great (trad) route using their gear.

[wayne]

Aww, Bill thats sweet of you, take him up on it Tim, I did about 30 years ago.

[ivan]

i have 2 weeks till i have to go back to school esse and usually end up soloing stuff out there due to no partner, so drop me a pm anytime you want to be escorted around the classics

[pink]

no partners, must be a generation gap out there.

[kevbone]

Beacon is like college.....every couple of years....the new class comes in.

[billcoe]

Aww, Bill thats sweet of you, take him up on it Tim, I did about 30 years ago.

 

Ha, except you were already outclimbing everybody else when you were 14 years old!

[tjmcd]

Billcoe, if I can make it, it will be either 8/24 or 8/26. I don't know if it would be very satifying for a local since I'd be with 3 newbies.

 

Several backpacking friends and I are doing Mt. Adams via South Spur. They have done some scrambling and have mentioned they'd like to try. I am trying to convince them to stop by on the way to the mountain, however, I have a feeling their interest is more on the theoretical side.

 

For myself, I'd love to try the SE Face. I feel comfortable leading up to 5.8 trad. I've always done multi-pitch as the Jr. team member. I thought that route might make a good first trip as a team leader since it seems within my technical abilities and is accessible if something bad happens.

[kevbone]

Dont get lost on the SE corner!

[billcoe]

pm sent