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Posted

Looking for conditions for N Face, Hour Glass and Skyladder, probably not promising with the temps. I was hoping to get up that way the second week of Sept. may be cooler then. One can always hope. :fahq:

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Posted

Athabasca NF on Saturday (July 28, 07):

 

IMGP1601.JPG

 

Close-up of upper NF:

 

IMGP1602.JPG

 

 

Exit at the top of the hourglass + seracs:

 

IMGP1603.JPG

 

Andromeda:

 

IMGP1612.JPG

 

 

It has been quite hot over there for the past several days. The routes are supposedly mostly ice (I only climbed a variation of the Siverhorn). There was rockfall in the hourglass as early as 8:00 am. I read in the MCR that Skyladder is melted out already, and is mostly out of condition. We met a team that did the North Bowl on Andromeda on Saturday though, and they said the route was all ice. We did not see any big slides, but there was one the previous Monday before the day we were there (check previous MCRs) way on the climber's left side on the North Glacier. The Park Wardens advised us to do the AA Col route, but all teams used the North Glacier on Saturday.

 

September seems a long way off - things will look mighty different by then. As you already know, insist on cold conditions. Have fun up there - what a magnificient place!!

 

Posted

Thanks for the info and great pics! Looks like what I had suspected I think waiting till Sept will be best hoping to do the hour glass. Your spot on about how much the conditions can change by Sept. Last year I got up there and climbed the north face the last week of sept and it was in great shape then. The Skyladder pic looks the most melted out that Ive seen. :fahq:

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, its September now and I was also wondering what the current conditions of AthaB NF route.

 

Anyone have pics or beta? I did not see any MCR reports recently of the NF.

 

I'm planning September 15/16 weekend. Historically, is that too late?

 

 

Posted

Between Athabasca and Andromeda I've done 6 routes. That place rules. :tup:

 

The Hourglass is really good. I'm afraid all my memories are from the 80s, so I can't help you with current conditions. The pictures posted do make it look thinner than it used to be.

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