[TR] Mt Triumph - NE Ridge 7/29/2007

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Trip: Mt Triumph - NE Ridge

 

Date: 7/29/2007

 

Trip Report:

Pictures...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[catbirdseat]

Is that a cloud of mosquitoes I see in the first photo!?!

[Rad]

Pile of choss with great Picket views, or is the climbing better than it looks?

[kevbone]

Pile of choss with great Picket views, or is the climbing better than it looks?

 

Yes. Its the frickin hike in that sucks.

[goatboy]

The skagit gneiss of Triumph is edgy and positive, making great holds for hands and feet. It is very enjoyable climbing, often exposed, though usually very easy (except for the one steep pitch pictured in the TR, which is relatively short).

 

I think it's a must-do climb for the total experience -- the views, the scenic (though long-ish) approach, the short glacier crossing leading to the long, moderate ridge -- sounds like Forbidden Peak, kind of, but I would say not nearly as good quality climbing.

 

Having said that, I'm not likely to rush back to do it AGAIN...but I'm glad to have done it once and recommend it.

[Off_White]

Yup, exactly as Goatboy says. You can maximize the coolness factor with a little extra work by carting your bivy gear onto the grand ledge about a pitch and a half above the notch, great position with panoramic pickets views.

[goatboy]

...and sometimes there are huge snow formations on the ridge which someone once called "snow whales" !!!

[Tom_Sjolseth]

CBS- yeah the mosquitos were pretty thick, but weren't biting very much. More of a nuisance by flying into your eyes and nose. They were much worse, though, on Hozomeen a couple of weeks back.

 

 

As for the quality of the rock, Goatboy hit it right on with his assessment of the route.