Couloir conditions Forbidden West Ridge

[sampdx1]

Does anyone know the condition of the couloir on the West Ridge of Forbidden right now?

[MCash]

According to a ranger a week ago, it was unpassable due to huge moat.

[fenderfour]

Some friends were up there last week and were able to climb the rock out of the moat after the ranger told them it was unpassable.

[goatboy]

It's always passable via 4th class rock to climber's left.

 

Rangers often say things are impassable.

[sampdx1]

Cool - thanks for the info.

[Maestro]

Has anyone actually climbed the rock variation that goatboy alluded to? How many pitches? What pro does it take? More time-consuming than struggling with the moat? I think I read somewhere that it goes at 5.6.

[Pred]

Pretty much follows rap route and it's mostly 4th to low 5th class.It's about 4 pitches long and more or less standard pro(small to mid size) We climbed it as a party of 3 as one long simulclimb (all the way to the notch).Good thing is that you check the raps on the way up...Have fun

[goatboy]

Climbing that snowy/icy couloir gives the route so much variety and alpine character. Once that thing melts out, I would recommend climbing the E Ridge instead, and returning via the East Ledges....but the West Ridge sure is fantastic...