[TR] Jack Mtn - S Face 7/17/2007

[tvashtarkatena]

Trip: Jack Mtn - S Face

 

Date: 7/17/2007

 

Trip Report:

 

"Man, I feel like shit."

 

Courtney had flown in from his home in Las Vegas the night before fighting the remnants of a cold, a lack of sleep, and jet lag, all of which made the 5300 foot ascent to our basecamp at Jerry Lakes that much more enjoyable. He, Kevin (a local), and myself had arranged this blind date to climb Jack Mtn, hopefully by squeeking through a chink in a forecasted series of summer storms. During the trip planning Kevin kept emailing us “Why Jack?” I had to admit it was a pretty good question. Oh well, it's a 9000er and its got to be done.

 

 

Jack Mtn from the Jerry Glacier

 

The following morning found Courtney in much better health, and after some early morning sprinkles the weather began to clear, so up and over the ridge W of Jerry Lakes we went, headed for that great choss pile in the distance.

 

 

Sunrise over the Pasayten

 

 

 

Approaching the peak

 

 

 

Indian Paintbrush on the route

 

We crossed the mountains SE shoulder and traverse the snow fields to the face just left of the summit, then negotiated a short steep section just left and above the small snowpatch in the photo (rap station at top) to gain the 3rd/4th class face itself. From there, we headed straight up for the summit on the rock.

 

 

The author and Courtney on the summit

 

 

 

Kevin on the summit

 

True to the forecasts, the storms rolled in early the next morning and continued dousing us right all the way down to the parking lot.

 

 

The storm from the shoulder of Crater Mtn

 

 

 

The other Crater Lake

 

 

 

The ghostly Crater Mountain

 

Jack is too rotten to be considered a great climb, but the beauty of the area and uniqueness of its views makes it a worthwhile objective. Once.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

one 40' rap, depending on comfort level. Boots, crampons, axe.

 

Approach Notes:

Canyon Lake TH - Jerry Lake - 7200 pass - across Jerry Glacier to camp at Jerry Lakes. Climb over ridge NW of Lakes, cross Jack's SE shoulder, traverse snowfields to base of S face, go up.

Edited July 19, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[rob]

nice! You get some great shots

 

I can't wait until you get a job

[tanstaafl]

I like the comment in the summit register that said of the East Ridge, "Only a true Cascades choss hound would call that 'excellent' rock." I thought it was pretty good myself. The South Face did look pretty rotten.

 

Nice storm shots. Did the rain at least keep the murderous bugs down?

[tvashtarkatena]

We unanimously agreed that the rain was vastly preferable to bugs...on the way out, at least.

 

Years ago a party of three of us got 2/3 of the way up the East ridge before we were weathered off. This time, we didn't want to attempt it with a party of three who'd never met each other...nor carry the extra rock gear.

 

Earlier in the year, the S face would be primarily a snow route. This time of year, I think climbing the East ridge and descending the S face would be the most aesthetic + efficient way to climb the mountain. I'd also throw some fishing gear in the pack, too.

 

 

Edited July 20, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[laconner]

Did you need crampons to cross Jerry glacier? I'm just going fishing this time.........

[tvashtarkatena]

We used crampons on the traverse to the col just before getting on the Jerry Glacier. If you've got a decent pair of stiffy boots, you may be able to get by without them, but personally I'd pack them in case it hard freezes at night.

 

There were many fish rising, begging to be caught, when we were there.