Self Belay Techniques

[spotly]

The manual for the Silent Partner is pretty specific on how to set it up and climb on lead. I'm curious to know what has worked best for people who've used the device or similar ones. Specifics like how many backup knots pre-tied, where you attach them to the harness, how long you tie them (hanging length between knots), and so on. Any other tricks you've learned along the way that made you more efficient or safer getting up the route.

 

Yes, I know "Don't climb solo." I'll take that to heart.

[high_on_rock]

Just my two cents buddy, and not device specific, but I only tied the back up knots to keep me off of "bounce points." Keeping rope stretch in mind, knots to keep me from decking on the ground or on ledges, and few others.

 

Merely my humble opinion

[NYC007]

the clove hitch has been used for along time Cassoro (sp) soloed route in patagonia used that method I believe.

[Highlander]

I use a silent partner quite a bit. One thing to consider when soloing is: are you going to carry the rope with you as you climb in a back pack or are you going to stack the rope on the ground/anchor. I tend to use one clove hitch back up at a time, connected to the harness tie in point. The back up knot actually helps the rope feed better if you are not carrying it with you. I don't like to use a lot of back up knots because I don't like all those loops hanging below me. For multi pitch climbs I prefer to carry the rope on my back in a pack unless I am aid climbing then I will just stack it in a rope bag. The rope feeds really well out of the pack, the only problem can be pulling extra rope out to use as a back up knot. Most of the time I don't use a back up knot unless the climbing is difficult. The SP works really well with 9.8-10mm ropes,any bigger and the rope may not feed as smoothly. I like the SP but I don't push my leading ability while using it.

[spotly]

How are you dealing with the slack that builds up on the anchor side of the rope..or is that even a real issue? I've got some 2mm cord I thought might be good for that - tie the rope to the pro (biner) with the cord as needed.

 

I'll check out the lowering capability of the SP at the crag but the manual makes it sound like a real pain. Do you lower with it - if so, what do you think, painful?

 

I've heard of people using a screamer at the anchor to help reduce the load (Rope in parallel but with enough slack to let the screamer work)..sound useful?

 

Thanks for the info. There's some easy routes at Post Falls I think I'll use to get the kinks worked out.

[bigbro]

I've used the sp a lot as well . . . agreed that one backup not works well and is mandatory if you are not caring the rope (the weight of the rope cinches the clove hitch). I usually use about a 30-50ft loop between the knot and the device. I prefer to flake the rope on the ground if doing single pitch (less weight) and carefully stack it in a sling/bucket if doing multi-pitch. 10.5 has worked well for me in the past. I have used it for lowering as well, although not ideal, it does have enough friction, for short lower outs. If rapping a full pitch, I'd recommend a Gri-gri single line (assuming multi-pitch climbing). Also . . . don't know if they're still made or not but 2 Petzl williams spin ball biners, connected through your tie-in point works well. Screw gates loosen up as they rub together and auto-lockers are a pain. With spin balls both gates open in unison and they stay locked. Finally . . . regarding the 2mm, (assuming I am understanding you(spotly)). . . just tie a butterfly or figure eight into several pieces as you move up. That way you are constantly building a bomb proof anchor as well as reducing the chance of slack building up on the anchor side. The catch is pretty soft with the sp, I don't know the KN, but it feels pretty soft, not sure a screamer would be that beneficial. Oh ya, don't grab the rope if you fall, you will fall a lot farther and probably get some nice rope burn.

[JosephH]

Here's a description of what I do from a roped soloing thread on RC.com

 

 

[richard_noggin]

put down the meth and go to bed JOE

[spotly]

Thanks Joe and Bigbro. Heading out this morning to play with the new toy.

[Jamin]

So is there a way that you can do a solo lead climb roped.

[kurthicks]

yes, but don't do it.