dynamic belay

[ken4ord]

The device I am talking of is a strictly friction unit not intended for belay but actually for Via ferrata.

 

 

What hell man....be real your going to carry this shit on alpine route or the crags?

[ketch]

I havn't for alpine. I have for some craggin. You wouldn't carry a screamer to a crag? . For close to the same weight I can use this as a screamer. Some of the local crags are delicate. I can preset these for low force activation and allow quite a bit of extension to really distribute the time. Then just reset ansd reuse if needed.

[Rad]

Remember the KISS acronym? For getting started, lock off and just catch the fall. In 99.9% of situations getting fancy is asking for trouble.

 

Anything that absorbs energy adds to the dynamic quality of the belay. Dynamic comes from many places:

 

1 - Rope stretch.

2 - Harness pinching belayer body.

3 - Mass/inertia/movement of belayer.

4 - Rope slip through device.

5 - Knot tightening (both ends).

6 - Minimal stretch of other components (e.g. slings).

 

 

 

 

 

[high_on_rock]

Perhaps another argument for having a fat belayer, the fat belly within my harness acts as a large mass of movable counterweight to make belays dynamic.

Fat is beautiful baby!

[beecher]

Penalty slack!

[sk]

Penalty slack!

 

can be a great motivator to keep climbing and to NOT FALL

[rob]

Penalty slack!

 

can be a great motivator to keep climbing and to NOT FALL

 

Can be a great motivator to kick someone's ass

[RuMR]

Remember the KISS acronym? For getting started, lock off and just catch the fall. In 99.9% of situations getting fancy is asking for trouble.

 

Anything that absorbs energy adds to the dynamic quality of the belay. Dynamic comes from many places:

 

1 - Rope stretch.

2 - Harness pinching belayer body.

3 - Mass/inertia/movement of belayer.

4 - Rope slip through device.

5 - Knot tightening (both ends).

6 - Minimal stretch of other components (e.g. slings).

 

 

 

 

well put!