IceIceBaby Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 Ushba ascenders,Are they really superior to the competition any experience? [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackhead Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 I like my ushba alot for top rope soloing...it works great for that. That's all i've used it for though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 Agreed. If you want to use the ascender for fixed line self belay, the ushba has no teeth damage the sheath. It uses a pinching affect or something to lock down. It rides up very smooth. But if you want to use it for aid climbing, I would suggest against having two of these. It is too hard to remove off the rope when you need to skip a piece, like on diagonal pitches. Maybe one petzl ascender and a handles ushba would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 How about in alpine environment like fix line ascent or as a mean of self belayed seconds while they tied to TR. anchor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: How about in alpine environment like fix line ascent or as a mean of self belayed seconds while they tied to TR. anchor well if you are running tr's in the alpine, you might just not want to be there.....try going to a small cliff and work on techique there first....the alpine is no place to tr and work on tr skillz......... and bringing a piece of gear like that to the alpine is a waste of weight......you want lighter stuff then way bring extra crap like that??? it's called a prussik, and that way you can use it for an auto black on the those rappells....remember everything must have atleast two functions for justfication of bringing it into the alpine......... be safe and enjoy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: well if you are running tr's in the alpine, you might just not want to be there.....try going to a small cliff and work on techique there first....the alpine is no place to tr and work on tr skillz......... and bringing a piece of gear like that to the alpine is a waste of weight......you want lighter stuff then way bring extra crap like that??? it's called a prussik, and that way you can use it for an auto black on the those rappells....remember everything must have atleast two functions for justfication of bringing it into the alpine......... be safe and enjoy.. Eric,What I meant is if you use the ascender as it connected to the rope. The rope at the top, is connected to an anchor(like in Via Fretta without the 5M intervals) not as practice Top Rope when the belayer next to you also I will carry an ascender in case Im going on a glacier any way b/c it facilitating crevasse rescue sure u can do with prussic but it will take twice longer and a lot more effort leaving you tired (not worth the weight saving of 5oz) [ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: I will carry an ascender in case Im going on a glacier any way b/c it facilitating crevasse rescue sure u can do with prussic but it will take twice longer and a lot more effort leaving you tired (not worth the weight saving of 5oz) PERFECT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT........ RELYING SOLELY on mech advantage, without the proper KNOWKEDGE of how to use traditional systems will lead to many troubles in the mountains......... and using s static device like an ascender on via ferreta is incorrect, they have dynamic self belay setups to use on those systems....i doubt any ascender would even clamp on to those cables.....result in a wicked shock loading death if one to fall..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceIceBaby Posted April 4, 2002 Author Share Posted April 4, 2002 Eric, Just read my post[*]I said LIKE Via-Fratta and NOT for/on Via-Fratta [*] proper Knowledge of the traditional techniques is a given [*] There is no solo reliant on the ascenders since you back up with an tied 8 to the harness in predetermined intervals (but I thought that you knew it since this is the only way to tie-in on ascenders) Now, after all that hair splitting ……how will the ascender perform for seconding and fix line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Now, after all that hair splitting ……how will the ascender perform for seconding and fix line i got ya bro.......... probably as good as the next....... [ 04-04-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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