skibum1087 Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 (edited) Trip: Dragontail - Serpentine Ridge Date: 6/29/2007 Trip Report: This past tuesday my friend Wyatt and I climbed Serpentine ridge. We left the car at 3:30 and encountered very few people along the way. The morning light started to illuminate the peaks as we got to Colchuck Lake. We took a nice long rest at Colchuck hoping that perhaps the rock would warm up a little bit before we set off on route, soon enough we came to our senses and realized that the route would be in the shade deep into the afternoon and started slogging up to the base. We followed the moraine crest heading up towards the colchuck glacier which worked perfectly. The forecast was for bright sun and warm temps, so gambling that the snow filled walk off would be soft by the time we summited to decided to take only one pair of crampons between the two of us. This made the 200 feet that seperated us between moraines end and the routes start quite a gripping adventure. We had heard about all of the loose rock on the upper section of dragontail, but we found the scariest loose rock to be in the initial gully pitches where it was loose and possibly due to route finding issues we were constantly encountering steps of up to 5.8. After we hit the right trending ramp system snow blocked the easy way into the dihedral so a runout and loose leftward variation was taken. The dot on the route overlay marks this spot. Once around the black tower we started up the crux pitches, which we found the lower portion of to be tricky for a 5.8, many of the good jams seemed to be filled with dirt, but it was all worth it to get to the money handcrack section higher up. The next pitch was just as spectacular, tricky climbing in the corner with awesome exposure. From there we belayed a pitch to the crest of the ridge, where once again we did harder than nessecary climbing, solid 5.8 moves through flakey overhangs and chimneys, but on outstanding rock. Colchuck lake grew farther and farther away. The rest of the views were not to bad either We simuled up and up, on the first two pitches of simuling we had to cut short and belay due to more steep steps of 5.8 climbing. Although we took a seemingly harder line than nessecary, we also found ourselves climbing high quality steep rock with huge holds much of the time. The worst looseness was defiently on the easier class 3/4 section where dirt was mixed with rubble. Stuart came into view and our excitment for the summit grew. The higher up we went the easier the climbing became, until suddenly we were under the summit block. Here we were faced with some desisions. Scramble around it? Climb the sweet looking but also very hard looking dihedral straight up the block? We eventually decided to climb it directly but via slightly easier looking cracks and ramps than the dihedral. I would put it at about 5.7+ but with some snow in the cracks to add to the alpine ambiance. The route felt much bigger and longer than we antisipated, but there we were on top. Great views of the enchantments The descent down the snowfield went well, it did soften up considerably so luckily our one crampon a piece system worked fine. Going down asgard is miserble after a long day but I am sure all of you already know that. Looking back we had some great views in the late afternoon light. All in all it was a fantastic climb. For me it was a step up from climbs such as west ridge on prusik and climbs on Liberty Bell. It seemed like a good segway towards bigger climbs such as north ridge of stuart, and it was a great learning experience for that. Simuling together well seems to be an art, and by the top of the climb I already felt like we had improved on it significantly. The view of the fin we got was rediculous, so hopefully backbone will be next on my list. -spencer Gear Notes: Doubles from yellow alien to number 2 camalot. One number 3, one blue zero and a single set of nuts. Two cordellets for sliging large blocks and horns for belay anchors. Doubles in the .5 size seemed to be used quite often, other than that the rack we carried seemed a little excessive in size, but it was a nice comfort to have becasue we really did not know what was coming on this route. Approach Notes: Colchuck lake- Big Moraine Summit post has a great description to find the proper start, but basically go to the highest patch of snow at the end of the moraine, do some face climbing out right and then head left into the left trending gulley which in two leads takes you out onto the ramp towards the black tower. Edited June 29, 2007 by skibum1087 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 sweet, nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Fun stuff. Thanks for posting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Great pics. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 It's a lovefest all around. I like the summit picture denoting the happiness and the fatigue. Sounds like you did the route in style. After all, you never know when you'll gt a chance to get back on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 I am looking forward to getting my girlfriend on her first alpine climb on this route this summer. Great climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Super fun climb.....thanks for the pics.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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