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Posted

here let me give a preview:

 

"I figured we all solo 5.11 and climb 5.13 so steinbok should be no problem..." "When I pulled out the drill I said Sorry Guy Edwards geuss im just not as bold as a climber as you..."

-Sonnie Trotter on the second ascent of the edwards spagnut 5.10d

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Dude I was pretty unstoked..they start the article with Kevins guide " This route is bold, loose rock, amazing line, yosemite like...." So they go up but bring a drill as well..I just dont get that. I mean it says loose and bold, it wasnt a surprise or secret information its right there in big bold text.

 

The route as I thought the community saw it was a testament to Guy's boldness and an amzing line with few who wanted to venture up there by fair means. I just dont understand how you could attempt that with a bolt kit in your bag.

 

Whilst climbing 5.14...

 

However I should clarify they only mention one bolt..but one bolt two bolts where does it end.

Edited by jmace
Posted
Ya no drive in access, but you cant land in the park so they landed on the edge and skied in then climbed Pigeon Spire, was quite cold they said.

 

You might want to let CMH know that, they land in the park often in the winter. In fact I hear the lower part of the Kain route is quite nice skiing. I wonder what the full story is on that?

Posted
I do not climb Mts EVER

 

Dude, you are seriosly missing out.

 

You are probably right. I prefer to rock climb.

 

I am a rock climber too. however i am aware of mountains and mountain climbers. I am not an expert but i can hold my own in a conversation. I suppose that is from hanging out here :)

Posted

You might want to let CMH know that, they land in the park often in the winter. In fact I hear the lower part of the Kain route is quite nice skiing. I wonder what the full story is on that?

 

Maybe so but in the article,obviously, they (CMH) state landing on the park boundary and skiing in and then out and back to the lodge.

Posted

So OK they placed one new 1/4" bolt, at a belay. I'm not so worked about that.

 

Well it would be nice to have all the poor belays fixed with at least one bolt and I geuss 1/4 since thats not such a big deal...

 

 

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