Washington Pass Must Do!!

[daler]

Hi All-

 

I have done many of the moderate classics at WA Pass and was hoping to get some beta for some of the harder less traveled routes-

 

Passenger? Any other new modern classics? What have you hard Men and Women been doing at the pass-

 

Freedom rider?

 

I'll be working in the North Cascades for 12 days and then will have 2 1/2 days at the pass to send with my wife-

 

Any suggestions would be great- Note: I'm very familiar with the areas as I grew up in Mazama so all the small talk beta is not needed!

 

Cheers,

 

Dale

Gravityguide.com

 

 

[marcus]

Freedom Rider is definitely one of the best lines I've done at WA Pass. Every pitch is unique, often sustained(at a moderate level) and fun. Best way to the top of LB!

[Dannible]

Might not be a "must do," but this route has some fun pitches: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=628237&PHPSESSID=dfd9db59b57e009552e95d129dcf6817. I think that if you head east from the start of the NW Face, on the east end of the grassy bench you can drop down 10 feet on a class 4 slab to a ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch, avoiding a lot of class 4 and two easy pitches. Or you might have to scramble up over something before you drop down, I don't remember. Might be a good way to spend your half day.

 

Bring extra RPs and your choice of narrow headed small cams to make the aid reasonable. Offsets would be ideal.

[DirtyHarry]

I thought Freedom Rider was definitly a good adventurous route. Bring a lot of bigger stuff for the optional hardman offwidth on the third pitch.

 

Boving route on the west face of South is a must do, though the cruxy first pitch doesn't usually dry out till later.

 

For more alpiney style, Gato Negro on the West Face of Silver Star is worthwhile.

[bobbyperu]

"Spice of life" on the east face of lexington...first three pitches of tooth and claw .11b, followed by the last 3 pitches of the reg. e. face rt. great variety...

 

then do the Boving rt. as dirtyharry mentioned but do the dolphin instead of the double roofs...classic chimney. this link-up stays in the sun as you move from east to west on the towers.

 

and i second the recommendation for gato-negro...great route

 

 

 

Edited June 15, 2007 by bobbyperu

[forrest_m]

Dale - I haven't done it, but Passenger gets really good reviews from everyone who does it, there's good pitch-by-pitch beta here.

 

Independence on Lib. Bell would be right up your alley. It's got 4 or 5 pitches of pretty high-standard free climbing (or moderate aid. extensive beta here

[John Frieh]

OffWhite's route is waiting for a second ascent:

 

 

Other stuff

 

The bolted variation that avoids the first 3 pitches of lib crack looks cool... 10+/11- I believe?

 

Couple new routes on the wine spires also.

 

 

 

 

[DirtyHarry]

 

then do the Boving rt. as dirtyharry mentioned but do the dolphin instead of the double roofs...classic chimney.

 

 

 

Well, the Dolphin definetly is harder and less traveled.