daler Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Hi All- I have done many of the moderate classics at WA Pass and was hoping to get some beta for some of the harder less traveled routes- Passenger? Any other new modern classics? What have you hard Men and Women been doing at the pass- Freedom rider? I'll be working in the North Cascades for 12 days and then will have 2 1/2 days at the pass to send with my wife- Any suggestions would be great- Note: I'm very familiar with the areas as I grew up in Mazama so all the small talk beta is not needed! Cheers, Dale Gravityguide.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcus Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Freedom Rider is definitely one of the best lines I've done at WA Pass. Every pitch is unique, often sustained(at a moderate level) and fun. Best way to the top of LB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Might not be a "must do," but this route has some fun pitches: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=628237&PHPSESSID=dfd9db59b57e009552e95d129dcf6817. I think that if you head east from the start of the NW Face, on the east end of the grassy bench you can drop down 10 feet on a class 4 slab to a ledge at the base of the 3rd pitch, avoiding a lot of class 4 and two easy pitches. Or you might have to scramble up over something before you drop down, I don't remember. Might be a good way to spend your half day. Bring extra RPs and your choice of narrow headed small cams to make the aid reasonable. Offsets would be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 I thought Freedom Rider was definitly a good adventurous route. Bring a lot of bigger stuff for the optional hardman offwidth on the third pitch. Boving route on the west face of South is a must do, though the cruxy first pitch doesn't usually dry out till later. For more alpiney style, Gato Negro on the West Face of Silver Star is worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) "Spice of life" on the east face of lexington...first three pitches of tooth and claw .11b, followed by the last 3 pitches of the reg. e. face rt. great variety... then do the Boving rt. as dirtyharry mentioned but do the dolphin instead of the double roofs...classic chimney. this link-up stays in the sun as you move from east to west on the towers. and i second the recommendation for gato-negro...great route Edited June 15, 2007 by bobbyperu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Dale - I haven't done it, but Passenger gets really good reviews from everyone who does it, there's good pitch-by-pitch beta here. Independence on Lib. Bell would be right up your alley. It's got 4 or 5 pitches of pretty high-standard free climbing (or moderate aid. extensive beta here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 OffWhite's route is waiting for a second ascent: Other stuff The bolted variation that avoids the first 3 pitches of lib crack looks cool... 10+/11- I believe? Couple new routes on the wine spires also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted June 18, 2007 Share Posted June 18, 2007 then do the Boving rt. as dirtyharry mentioned but do the dolphin instead of the double roofs...classic chimney. Well, the Dolphin definetly is harder and less traveled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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