[TR] Goat Wall - Prime Rib (of Goat) 6/11/2007

[fredrogers]

Trip: Goat Wall - Prime Rib (of Goat)

 

Date: 6/11/2007

 

Trip Report:

Did Prime Rib of Goat on Monday after getting rained off Saturday 4 pitches up. Super fun climb with interesting and varied climbing from low angle slab to steep face with great holds. We skipped the first 5.2 pitch and scrambled the very loose gully to the start of pitch 2 (quicker, but trundly). I lead pitch 2 which says 5.8, but felt easier other than one tricky move at the second bolt on the steep part (there is an intermediate station right before it gets steep, so you can break it into 2). Some easy scrambling gets you to the base of pitch 3, which goes up a ramp to some low angle slabs and a rap anchor- keep leading up and right past 2 bolts to the next belay anchor on a huge ledge. The next pitch is one of the better ones on the route, with an interesting move right at a small roof (well protected) to slabs and the next anchor up on the slab (don't belay at the rap station on the left). a short down climb leads to the next anchors. Easy climbing (5.5- 5.6) then leads up to the next anchors- I clipped them and went right on the ledge to the start of the next pitch. This pitch gains exposure immediately and is made all the more fun for it. Pitch six starts off a ledge with a boulder move on great jugs, then easy slab to finish. Hike up and left to the next pitch (following cairns), which is a long lead up slab on the only slightly sketchy rock to an airy belay stance. Follow bolts up and then along an exposed rightward traverse (agin, super fun from the exposure) to easly slab climbing and the final pitch.

 

Make sure the last pitch (5.9 in the topo, maybe 5.8?) is yours, as it starts out with almost instant exposure to some bouldery and fun moves with several hundred feet of air sucking at your heels.

 

All cruxes on the route are are very well bolted (skip em' or clip 'em). The route is equipped for single rope rappels- you can't see the station between pitches 8 and 9 until you are on the rap- have faith, it's there. There is some very loose rock on that section of the rappel line, so use caution if there are people below. We pulled off some big chunks that landed at the base of the the long slab pitch (pitch 8).

 

It looks like a LOT of work went into this route, so thanks, it's appreciated.

 

We spent 1/2 hour on the approah, 4 hours on the route, 1:15 on the descent to the base of the gully, 15 minutes to the car and cold beer.

 

All in all, a good route.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

The topo says 14 draws, we had some double slings as well and found them more useful for the most part.

 

Approach Notes:

Park 3 miles up from the Mazama store on the left. Hike the road for 2 minutes until you hit an old logging road and then follow the trail up. Stay in the talus until right below the base of the wall and then contour up until you see a gully with a fir with a sling. If you hit gate creek you have gone too far.

[ivan]

nice - the guide shack in mazama has a folder out front w/ xeroxed copies of topies for that and other goat wall climbs too and is worth stopping by before hitting the wall - an excellent place to know about for when wa pass gets crappy

[spotly]

I liked the exposure on the last pitch as well. Looked like some nice exploring could be had up top there - maybe next trip. Pitch 8 was pretty interesting too. Long and with good bolt placements. I'm not a huge fan of slopers but still found it to be a fun lead. Seemed that was the only pitch that had rock similar to what you find at the crag there too. The rock on the rest of the route was quite a bit different...if I recall right.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Alpin' Clippn': The wave of the future.

[devinejohnny]

Climbed this on the 7/21 after climbing Yak Crack on Yak Peak the day before. Stopped in Mazama to say high to some OB leaders and remembered seeing some topos on the North Cascade Climbing Guides bulletin board (when they were still right next to the store). Found that the guides had moved down the street, but was excited to find the binder that you mention ivan. Not only are the topo’s great, you don’t need to sketch them down by hand anymore: they have multiple copies. Thanks guys! You should set up a donation can or something; I felt a little guilty just taking. There were some great topos of the other “alpine sport” routes on the wall, plus some new looking routes on Silver Star and the Wine Spires.