Missing Hanger on Milky Way

[Weekend_Climberz]

Just thought to let everyone know that the first bolt on Milky Way is missing it's hanger and nut. Doesn't appear to have been chopped, since the stud is still intact and looks to be perfectly usuable. The crack in the corner provides great pro options, so maybe someone should remove the stud?

[Toast]

Way more exciting that way, huh?

[Weekend_Climberz]

How's the saying go, "If you don't fall, you're not trying hard enough."

[counterfeitfake]

i think it's "if you fall you didn't try hard enough"

[Alpinfox]

And what/where, pray tell, is "Milky Way"?

 

Is it one of those BLT-ed routes at Abortion38?

[Weekend_Climberz]

Sorry Mr. Fox, should have mentioned that in my first post. Milky Way is at the Pearly Gates in L-town. Just bring a yellow and orange TCU or similiar and you'll be good to go :tup:

[Toast]

Or a hangar, nut and wench... I mean wrench.

[Weekend_Climberz]

and a salt lick

 

[catbirdseat]

I should point out that the best location to place said yellow TCU is also the best location for a finger jam. I'm sure that whoever removed the hanger was thinking that the route protects fine with gear, but the result was to effectively make the route harder. Without that finger jam it really is harder. Perhaps there is another place that gear could go? The corner crack below is quite thin and it would require very small cams. Has anyone else done this route?

 

The orange TCU he mentions is not high enough by itself to keep you from breaking an ankle on a ledge before you can pull the crux.

Edited June 12, 2007 by catbirdseat

[matt_m]

Done the route numerous times. The first bolt is located above the good gear and keeps you from decking from 20' up. There is a good cam lower BUT marginal gear at best where the bolt is. Small flared 0 TCU placement. Also of significant note: even if you could get gear in a bit lower, you have to pull up onto the slab above out of the corner. If you blow the moves getting to the next bolt, you'll ground out before the "gear" ever catches you.

 

IT'S BS that a route that's been un-screwed with for a good 4-5 years and is a quality line is being messed with now.

 

[Doug T]

It's the nature of this area. I think we've got folks stealing hangers for their own projects elsewhere. I don't think it has anything to do with any ethical statements about pro.

 

Engrave all hangers with what route it's on, epoxy the nut, use glue-ins or use Petzl longlife bolts that can't have the hanger stolen.

 

Doug T