[TR] Hood - Reid Headwall 5/28/2007

[l0930]

Trip: Hood - Reid Headwall

 

Date: 5/28/2007

 

Trip Report:

Straightforward climb on Reid Headwall. Great weather and cold temps so no ice or rock fall and we were able to keep left in the rime.

 

Laura on a little ice

 

Tim up higher

 

Tim again

 

Laura getting ready for the last section

 

Tim getting ready to summit

 

Gear Notes:

Great snow and a little ice. Didn't use the second tool or need any pro.

 

Approach Notes:

Windy to start with but otherwise standard stuff, up Palmer over to Illumination and up the route.

[Chad_A]

Cool, like that route. Looks like it's holding together well.

 

Thanks for the report and the pics.

[RogerJ]

I second the "Cool". Good TR! The route looks in great shape.

 

I really like that route. Maybe I need to alter next weekend's plans!

 

-r

[Ptown_Climber1]

Wow, great pics! Pictures really capture the perspective up there.....I really have wanted to climb that route, but it'll probably have to wait until next year. Had you guys climbed it before, or is it pretty obvious where to ascend, as far as gullies go? Nice job.

 

 

[l0930]

I don't know a lot about it but ask around a lot of people have done it.

 

This was the first time for me and the second time for Tim but a new variation. There are a couple lines right and left. The right is obvious ie stay right and then the other is up through the rime and gullies and stays interesting almost all the way up. You should probably have a pic of the gullies and description for the left, but you can tell what goes through once you've headed into what looks most interesting. You want it cold for the left line though cause there can be a lot of ice and rock fall. Hope that helps,

 

Laura

[Chad_A]

or is it pretty obvious where to ascend, as far as gullies go?

 

This photo may help. I found this picture online, and added the red line the day after I did the route:

 

I think that most people don't go left around the lower rock buttress like the red line illustrates; mainly, they stay right of that. I just went left because I was by myself, and too chicken to deal with that bergschrund Follow that snowfield, up and as you get into gullies/towers, keep trending left. It gets more and more fun as you get into them. I haven't done the right variation that leads to the west crater rim, but the left variation sounds more fun anyway.

 

You'll end up at the Queens Chair after crossing some steep ground coming out of the gullies, and voila, walk the summit ridge to the Summit. Fun! Sorry I missed out on doing it this year

 

edit: photo fixed!

 

[Crackman]

We pretty much followed the main route (#14) as shown in Oregon High except perhaps at the very end when we climbed up staight up through some interesting rime and rock rather than skirting left. Using VW's photo, and my hazy memory I added what I think was our line in green.

 

It is a fun route, especially the way it winds through and connect one narrow gulley after another. One last comment, if you climb with Laura, you better be in shape!

 

[Ptown_Climber1]

Sweet! Those route pics really help....I didn't realize it was so close towards Leuthold. Looks like you ascend on right side of that buttress while Leuthold and the hourglass are on left? Looks like a great climb...definitely top of the list for next season.

[texplorer]

Nice stuff, I am envious. Great to see the Crackman still at it.