Banks Lake rock

[rob]

Hey, I might be in the area camping with the fam and would like to squeeze in a day on the rock.

 

Any suggestions regarding guide books and routes? I'm mostly interested in trad routes.

Edited May 28, 2007 by robmcdan

[Crillz]

Saw some quickies in the "Weekend Rock". Looked like mostly single pitch trad and sport mixed. I think there was a mention of needing a conoe or boat to reach the starts. Probably enough routes in this book for a day's worth.

[rob]

yeah, I wonder if there is a place nearby I can rent a canoe, I don't seem to have one among my rack.

[spotly]

There's a nice trad route next to the highway at Highway Rock called Washington Pass that's 5.8. Takes 2 ropes to rap. Cross the marshy area at the end of the inlet that seperates the rock from the highway, directly next to the large pull-out then head left for 40 or so yards to the obvious crack. Pretty nice route. Take a 4" cam. The guide book says you can continue to the top (5.8) as well. There are a few other (though stiffer) cracks in there and plenty of real nice bolted routes as well.

[rob]

Cool, thx.

 

Highway Rock, you mean roadside rock?

[rbwen]

The new Rick Labelle book has a bunch of routes in it (Rock Climbs of Central WA) as does Weekend Rock. I've got both if you are coming through Wenatchee and want to borrow...rbwen

[spotly]

Cool, thx.

 

Highway Rock, you mean roadside rock?

 

Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock

[pindude]

Nice pics, spotly. Some of these avatar pics are hard to make out, but now I know what yours is.

 

Cool, thx.

 

Highway Rock, you mean roadside rock?

 

Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock

 

Highway Rock and Roadside Rock are the same. "Highway Rock" is the original name used by locals. It's noted correctly in the newer La Belle guide, and was mistakenly named "Roadside Rock" in Bland's older guide. Mistake was repeated by Whitelaw in "Weekend Rock," which was written and printed prior to the 2006 La Belle guide.

 

La Belle's "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" has the most and newest routes for Banks Lake and nearby areas. "Weekend Rock" is a good complement as Whitelaw lists several boat-in only areas near Highway Rock that aren't included in La Belle.

 

If you'll be climbing on popular Highway Rock, use La Belle's guide for sure. Many routes are bolt only, but La Belle lists which routes require trad gear. He also notes approaches and rap-ins, number/length of ropes needed, number of bolts and trad gear size for specific climbs. Good intros and warmups for Highway are on the south side starting with Bono and The Edge, Washington Pass (as mentioned by spotly), and Calanques. My favorite climbs on Highway Rock are on the west, water side and include Aqualine, Creamsicle Buttress, Danton, Tom Paine, Robespierre, Pas de Deux, White Lung Disease, Croissant, and Rashomon as a summit top-out. Further to the north on the west side, out of the sun the longest (until about 2 pm these days) and best reached by rapping in after walking around from the north are Cinderelle, Pas de Cheval, Papillon, Ou est Valdes, and Steve's Classic Dihedral.

 

In Northrup Canyon, good moderates include the Southwest Arete of Gibraltar and several routes on Picnic Table Rock such as Earnest Stemmingway and Jugoslavia. Likely the best route on Picnic Table is Dr. Ceuse, which some say is the best single pitch in the Banks area.

 

All climbs I've mentioned are moderates, not harder than mid-10.

 

Boat not needed for Highway Rock and Northrup Canyon climbs. La Belle's Penninsula area used to be accessible by vehicle via Barker Canyon from the west side of the lake but is now closed to vehicles near the Barker Canyon boat ramp (as of this past winter), necessitating a several-mile hike. Best access for the Penninsula is now by boat from the east side, from the boat launch across from and west of the Northrup Canyon road. The Penninsula has the longest climbs on Banks, 3-5 pitches from just above waterline to the top of Orange Wall, but can get hot.

 

When accessing Highway Rock by crossing through the marshy area between the gravelled parking area and the rock, look out for poison ivy including right on the beaten trail. It's a real ivy jungle there, but on Saturday I emptied two spray cans of herbicide on the stuff just within reaching distance of the trail. Poison Ivy abounds also on small ledges on the west side, so look out when throwing your ropes.

 

Other hazards include rattlers and loose rock. Most routes are still fairly new and/or don't receive much traffic, and the granitic gneiss is crumbly enough to warrant constant attention.

 

Have fun out there.

[Marty]

Nice pics, spotly. Some of these avatar pics are hard to make out, but now I know what yours is.

 

Cool, thx.

 

Highway Rock, you mean roadside rock?

 

Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock

 

Highway Rock and Roadside Rock are the same. "Highway Rock" is the original name used by locals. It's noted correctly in the newer La Belle guide, and was mistakenly named "Roadside Rock" in Bland's older guide. Mistake was repeated by Whitelaw in "Weekend Rock," which was written and printed prior to the 2006 La Belle guide.

 

La Belle's "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" has the most and newest routes for Banks Lake and nearby areas. "Weekend Rock" is a good complement as Whitelaw lists several boat-in only areas near Highway Rock that aren't included in La Belle.

 

If you'll be climbing on popular Highway Rock, use La Belle's guide for sure. Many routes are bolt only, but La Belle lists which routes require trad gear. He also notes approaches and rap-ins, number/length of ropes needed, number of bolts and trad gear size for specific climbs. Good intros and warmups for Highway are on the south side starting with Bono and The Edge, Washington Pass (as mentioned by spotly), and Calanques. My favorite climbs on Highway Rock are on the west, water side and include Aqualine, Creamsicle Buttress, Danton, Tom Paine, Robespierre, Pas de Deux, White Lung Disease, Croissant, and Rashomon as a summit top-out. Further to the north on the west side, out of the sun the longest (until about 2 pm these days) and best reached by rapping in after walking around from the north are Cinderelle, Pas de Cheval, Papillon, Ou est Valdes, and Steve's Classic Dihedral.

 

In Northrup Canyon, good moderates include the Southwest Arete of Gibraltar and several routes on Picnic Table Rock such as Earnest Stemmingway and Jugoslavia. Likely the best route on Picnic Table is Dr. Ceuse, which some say is the best single pitch in the Banks area.

 

All climbs I've mentioned are moderates, not harder than mid-10.

 

Boat not needed for Highway Rock and Northrup Canyon climbs. La Belle's Penninsula area used to be accessible by vehicle via Barker Canyon from the west side of the lake but is now closed to vehicles near the Barker Canyon boat ramp (as of this past winter), necessitating a several-mile hike. Best access for the Penninsula is now by boat from the east side, from the boat launch across from and west of the Northrup Canyon road. The Penninsula has the longest climbs on Banks, 3-5 pitches from just above waterline to the top of Orange Wall, but can get hot.

 

When accessing Highway Rock by crossing through the marshy area between the gravelled parking area and the rock, look out for poison ivy including right on the beaten trail. It's a real ivy jungle there, but on Saturday I emptied two spray cans of herbicide on the stuff just within reaching distance of the trail. Poison Ivy abounds also on small ledges on the west side, so look out when throwing your ropes.

 

Other hazards include rattlers and loose rock. Most routes are still fairly new and/or don't receive much traffic, and the granitic gneiss is crumbly enough to warrant constant attention.

 

Have fun out there.

 

Duh. Everyone knows its called "Highway Rock" and not "Roadside Rock". I just wrote it wrong in my guide so Id know who was plagiarizing my book. Whitlaw will hear from my lawyer soon. So will LaBelle for renaming all the routes. That really chaps my ass the most Steve. -Bland out.

[catbirdseat]

I don't have your book Marty. Did you copyright it?

[Marty]

I don't have your book Marty. Did you copyright it?

 

Does Eastern Washington have dirty cracks?

[drater]

So will LaBelle for renaming all the routes. That really chaps my ass the most Steve. -Bland out.

 

 

These would be teh infamous Red routes?

[drater]

I don't have your book Marty. Did you copyright it?

 

Does Eastern Washington have dirty crackheads?

 

 

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