Yates Screamer Info.

[dan_e]

I wanted to hear this from the horses mouth you could say, so I asked Yates directly:

What I asked:

"I was wondering if you can clarify what type of carabiners should be used on your screamer and zipper screamer models. I've heard a locker on the rope end, locker on both ends, andalso no need for lockers on either end for the new models?! I would like to know exactly what you, the manufacturer recommends."

Reply from Karen at Yates:

"Gate vibration does not occur on linear stitch patterns, of which all Yates load limiters are made. Any carabiner can be used, locking or non locking, wire or reg gate."

I always had used a locker on the rope end, because I someone I trusted back in the day told me it's a good idea, but it sounds like it was unnecessary. The reason I asked is because I am using load limiters more this season for ice climbing, mostly because of the ropes I am using (BW Ice Floss).

Dan E.

[AJ]

That is pretty much what I've been told too. I have climbed with one guy who always uses a locker (rope side) for his first piece. His reasoning it that he may decide to change direction and he wouldn't want the rope to unclip the piece in a fall. He also figures that that would be a severe fall and he wants all the carabiner strength possible. He sometimes uses Screamers. I always like the first ice piece to have a Screamer attached. Another buddy of mine only uses Screamers when ice climbing - unless it is something like wrapping a really big (1' diameter) icicle or something.

[Dru]

I have 5 screamers and i place them on my first 5 scrws cause the fall factor is highest. they have wiregates on both ends because the low gate mass makes them unlikely to open if the stitch ripping causes vibration.

i have seen guys fall on screamers on ice suddenly (like all 4 pts of contact suddenly fail while the guy is just standing there psyching) and they work awesome. never seen one rip all the stitches open - just about 1/3 of them- but i heard it can happen with bigger falls.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I got a screamer. She is pretty loud! The neighbor always complains about her. I kinda like it

[freeclimb9]

Your BW Ice Floss, if clipped single strand, will limit the load on the ice-screws. Using the Yates Screamers is a little redundant (but not a bad idea). I often will clip single strands of the double ropes I use (BW 8.8mm ropes, BTW) for the first half of the ropelength on a pitch, then I clip both strands.

Are you worried about the strain on the ropes themselves?

[gregm]

quote:

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Originally posted by freeclimb9:

I often will clip single strands of the double ropes I use for the first half of the ropelength on a pitch, then I clip both strands. Are you worried about the strain on the ropes themselves?

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I've heard mixing single and double clipping is a bad idea, particularly when going from single clip to double clip. Essentially you have different lengths of rope out - as the rope stretches when you fall you can create friction between the two ropes and burn through them. Nylon burns real easy!!

[Dru]

If you have lots of draws you can put two draws on one screw for the double-to-single clips and give each rope its own draw, to avoid the scenario gregm describes. But usually you have to clip the second draw into the first draw (sling not biner) to work this.

[freeclimb9]

Nylon melts at approximately 450 degrees Farhenheit.

It's also a good idea to use quickdraws of different lengths when clipping both strands so that, in the event of a fall, the ropes aren't pinched between the rope-end carabiners.