willstrickland Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Alright, got my Rambo comp duals last night from Sportsextreme.com and I was trying to set them up in the offset frontpoint config...kinda like a modified mono set-up. THe problem is that there doesn't seem to be a way to make the thing rigid when doing this. I've got the frame at full extension, but since the rear most holes in the front points have one bar through them and the others should have the second bar through them but the holes don't line up right, almost like there needs to be another hole in the front points/ I'm at a loss. Otherwise I've got 'em set up about how I want them as far as bail positions, etc. Any insight? Quote
willstrickland Posted December 18, 2001 Author Posted December 18, 2001 Just for clarity: The part I'm not able to install would normally be the middle bar of the three. This keeps the front and secondary/tertiary from being rigidly connected to the rear "cage". Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Those tiny tubes in between are different sizes. One cannot be swapped for the other on the same crampon. Dont know if you already looked at this.. Quote
fishstick Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 I'm having a bit of trouble wrapping my tired brain around the problem, but I think if you shorten the crampons by one hole, that should solve the problem, assuming of course such a compromise will still work heel and rear bail-wise. Why the off-set dual configuration? Apart from a bit more dexterity on the odd mixed move, I see off-set duals as lacking the stable platform or penetration of conventional duals and the versatility of monos (by off-set I'm assuming off-set length as opposed to centering). GB Quote
willstrickland Posted December 18, 2001 Author Posted December 18, 2001 Here's a link to the instructions/diagram for the Rambocomps, scroll all the way down past the color drawing to the exploded view, now see how the middle bar goes through the middle set of holes in the frontpoints? There needs to be another set of holes in the frontpoint bars...or I'm really thickheaded. The front and rear set of holes have pairs on each side, but the middle only has one, trying to offset them doesn't allow you to install that bar and without it the frontpoints are only attached to the rear section with one bar...which becomes a hinge and leaves me with a flexible crampon.rambocomp pdf [ 12-18-2001: Message edited by: willstrickland ] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Maybe I am still dumb. It looks like it is designed not to do that. Quote
erik Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 will i think the way i did it was to have one point with the bar going through the back hole of the point and then the other bar going through the fwd hole of the other point. but i have the old rambos. i think they might have a different setup. if you don't figure it out, i'll brong mine down and show you. i got another teak that might make them work better too! fish offset points help us dual pointers high step bulges betters and smash through the chandilers a little better too. better to have one point in then two points kinda in. the secondary(front point) point kinda stablizes the poon when the other point is set. i feel it works very well on all terriain. enjoy Quote
dan_e Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Will, I have the Rambocomps, but with mono-points. I noticed my points have one hole in the rear and two in the front. I was not aware that you could offset the dual points though. My mono-points are offset, but only from center. If you can't get this working you might want to try the mono-points, I switched four years ago and have not used dual-points since (except for alpine). There are so many advantages to mono-points, on the down side sometimes if the ice is really rotten you shear through a bit more having only one point, but in that case all I do is kick in harder to reach the secondary points. Dan E. Quote
fishstick Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Will, The two diagrams provided on the site are different. Do you have two holes near the end of the points as in the lower diagram, or two holes in the center as per the upper? GB Quote
JayB Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Will: How long did the it take for your Rambocomps to arrvive after you ordered them? The folks at sportextreme supposedly put my order in the mail last Friday, and from the tracking info it looks like they are still sitting on a loading dock somewhere in Europe. I'm hoping they'll arrive before I get on the plane for WA next Sunday. Quote
philfort Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 He said to lower at the lower diagram, so he's only got one hole in the middle, and two holes in front and in back. Like caveman said, it looks like its not designed to do what you want to do. Unless maybe you can buy two shorter bars, and have them only go halfway across (i.e. so the middle bar would be two short bars, with nothing in between the front points) Quote
willstrickland Posted December 19, 2001 Author Posted December 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by fishstick: Will, The two diagrams provided on the site are different. Do you have two holes near the end of the points as in the lower diagram, or two holes in the center as per the upper? GB As in the lower diagram, two holes near the end, but with either set-up it would seem you need two sets both at the back and in the middle. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 19, 2001 Author Posted December 19, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Maybe I am still dumb. It looks like it is designed not to do that. Yeah, that's what I thought to myself, but the instructions even point out that you can do this..what the hell? Maybe I'll e-mail Grivel with one of those nice translators we;ve been using, All you crampon are belong to us yo. Quote
philfort Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Hmm... yeah, the instructions do imply you can do that: "Using different holes (b) in the forged frontpoints (D) allows you to differentiate the length between the two points." The only way I can see that working is if, as I said, your middle bar is two short bars. But why not just make a second hole in the middle section???Or maybe you're stuck with non-rigid crampons when you do this! - which may be why they say "But, try it first close to the road on an easy route." Quote
fishstick Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Will, It looks as though you're right, unless there's a way of using only the rear holes, which would be a huge stress riser. Erik, Noted and understand on the high stepping thing. Unusual genetics and a poor childhood diet have provided me with a set of limbs that can bend and twist in some funky positions, hence my own lack of passion when it comes to off-set points. For really high steps on well featured waterfalls, I find you can use the inside, forward-most down points for an intermediate edging position, while getting a more conventional placement with the other foot. All ice is good. GB Quote
willstrickland Posted December 19, 2001 Author Posted December 19, 2001 Jay: Took about a week. I think I ordered on a Monday and got them the following monday. Mine shipped to Copenhagen, then somewhere else in Europe, then to Boston, and finally to PDX. Quote
hikerwa Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Will, took the liberty of translating the instructions to french and back to english to clarify and simplify them. I think the more they are translated the easier to understand they become. <quote> 1. Remove assembled it of their can and place the one on the only of your shoes in order to begin comprehension their advantages and the a lot of possible mentioned in the introduction. · The front bullet (F) can be placed in one of the four oval holes (A) to adjust the length of the frontpoints in comparison with your shoes. They also possible to put the front bullet in the position asymmetric (for example 1° and 2° the hole) to adjust the shoes curved. · The two forward holes (B) in the forged (D) allows an adjustment between the frontpoints and the second of points: usage it forward hole in a class that corresponds to the French and Italian of clingy. Use the posterior obtains a bigger distance that in comparison of German and American shed on not at all. · To Compare the length of clingy and load only before continuing and decide exactly this that you has the intention to do in regards to adjust of the and adjustments; which hole bullet? which position FP? how long? 2. Dismantle A clingy completément, leave the other is itself assembled as an example to follow. 3. Place the front bullet (F) in one of the four holes adjustment length (A) you have chosen in the yellow lateral "fly" ©. 4. Assemble it "fly" © and the forged (D) usage the one of classes and the first of bar space (H) (a big and two small). Hand-shed the noix. 5. Place the posterior cage (E) some place, assure its bars are between the lateral "fly" © and the hole environment bars frontpoint (D). Assemble this portion while using the short other bolt and the second series bar space (H) in the correspondent position for the only boot length. Hand-shed the noix. 6. Lock the posterior (E) and "fly" © together (to do the clingy rigid) usage the long and the last of bar space (H). Hand-shed the noix. 7. Place the posterior bullet (G) in the oval-formed correspondent holes (L) agree to load only length, the lever 'should clink' firm fermement on the boot without deforming it in plastic matter. The width of the bullet can be tailored while pulling or push to suit widths that vary soles. 8. Place the clingy on the boot to confirm that you have chosen the exact length (the posterior cage haould be to the bore of the end of the heel), the length frontpoint (1 thumb more or less, depend on ice - longer for the rotten thing), the placement bullet (any fange). 9. Once adjustments are exact, shed the noix and bolts. 10. To receive to and craggy ice in the mountains veneer them of "anti-anti-balling" can be useful. If your projects include the wet snow, these veneer (do not include in the can) can be climbed on the clingy. They would not have be necessary for the most purely the roads waterfall. 11. Repeat the entire procedure with clingy other. The grade: the usage different holes (B) in the forged frontpoints (D) allows you to differentiate the length between the two points. This is advantageous techniquement in some positions (to result in a modified mono-point for the easier penetration). But, to try it first close to the ground, close to the road on an easy road. Not does not climb your clingy and then the jump on the nearest Advance 6. The grade #2: to Not forget lace up safety girth by the ring security on the front bullet - to the case where the clingy separate</quote> I think it's cool that in french crampons are "clingy's" Quote
philfort Posted December 19, 2001 Posted December 19, 2001 Se promener sur les escaliers du telepherique peut endommager vos "clingy's" Quote
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