Madison, Wisconsin Climbers?

[jessieo]

Hello. I am moving to Wisconsin (burr) next year and I know nothing about climbing out there. Has anyone had experience or know anyone who has climbed there?

 

There is an indoor climbing wall in Madison: www.bouldersgym.com But that is all I have found so far.

 

Thank you!

[pindude]

What town in Wisconsin are you moving to?

 

My family is from and I was born in the cheese state, but I became a climber after moving away. Devil's Lake near Baraboo is the main show, although there's a few other places to boulder and climb that I've heard about. Carolyn from this board is from Minnesota and will know better about places and any local climbing discussion boards for the area.

 

 

[To_The_Top]

As far as I know Devils lake is it, and around an hour from Madtown. I had some pics of some routes but couldnt find em.

This was a site used before: http://climbingcentral.com/rock/devilslake/devilslake.html

Ran into the IT guy that put up some of the stuff, but really Devils lake is a total abberation in the grasslands, an oasis really, plus beer is very plentiful in these areas, and try out supper clubs. WI is not bad at all and Madison is cool.

TTT

[Bug]

The climbing at Devils lake is short but high quality.

Check it out for sure.

[carolyn]

Yup, Devils Lake. Yes, short. Yes, quality.

TTT gave you the right link.

There is not much traffic on that site (on the bulletin board) until Ice season.

 

You could contact the owner of the site directly, Eric Landmann ,and he can help steer you in the right direction in regards to the local climbing community (he lives in Madison).

 

Regarding Ice (if thats a concern): I think there are some short climbs that form in and around the area (eric would know location and quality). Most folks from around there come up to MN - about 6 hrs to sandstone (drytoolin, some natural and some farmed), 7hrs to duluth area (drytooling, mixed, and some natural). Im not sure how long it takes Eric to get to Candada - probably around 12 hrs either to Nipigon or Sault St Marie area. Also munising is an option (probly bout the same distance). There are people driving up from Madison all the time, so rideshares/partners should be easy.

 

Good luck! Let me know if there is any other information I can help you with.

 

 

[cook]

Jessie, it is good to see you here!

[Argus]

Also, check out Mountain Project. The climbers in Scony are pretty active on this board:

 

http://mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/105708968

Edited May 14, 2007 by Argus

[carolyn]

actually, now that I think of it - I believe there is a climbers website/bulletinboard that is an offshoot of the park's website.

 

Just google Devil's Lake Climbing and you will likely find all the info you need.

 

Definately get in touch with Eric, though - as he publishes a lot of the guide books in the Midwest and is very active in the climbing community in Madison.

[Duchess]

yay! madison is awesome, i went to school there, climbed regularly at boulders (awesome gym, at least it was five years ago!), and learned to climb at devil's lake. i recall being told that both eric simonson and ed viesturs learned to climb there as well... be careful though! that quartzite is slippery and 5.11s are known to masquerade as 5.8s!!

have a blast there, madison is the greatest! eat some hot spicy cheese bread at the farmer's market for me pls!

peace

[Jopa]

I have only been here for two academic years and have not spent a summer in Wisconsin yet but here is what I have learned in my experience:

 

Devil's Lake is a great crag with lots of high quality trad routes. There are a few fixed pins here and there, but plan on needing a rack for every climb. Some of the leads can be spicy due to the steep and slick nature of the quartzite and years of toproping, but the rock is solid and takes good gear. Once you climb on DL quartzite the granite in the PNW will feel like cheating. Only about 25% of the people lead, so be ready to dodge topropes. In the Fall months there are an insane number of bees on the faces and in the cracks; you can sling them for pro but it's aid.

 

The Eastern Rampart is where most people go since it has some of the tallest routes (some up to ~100ft, which is as good as it gets in the MW) and a high concentration of good cracks, but there are plenty of other areas around if you are willing to explore. Try Major or Minor mass at Doorway bluff. There is also a great sandstone crag in the park that has some fine cracks (referred to as the 'Old Sandstone area').

 

As far as other areas within a reasonable days drive from Madison there is Petenwell Bluff in Necedah. Check out Mountainproject.com as suggested above.

 

The people who run the climbing gym in Madison (Boulders) are great. Despite my constant whining they do not have any cracks which makes the winter months even more difficult.

 

Make sure to know the holy trinity in Wisconsin: beer, cheese, and football (if you are ever unsure it's safe to go with beer, beer, beer). Wisconsin is a beautiful state with plenty of forests, wildlife, streams, and the north shore is beautiful. There are no mountains. I repeat, there are no mountains. Knock knock, who's there? Not mountains.

 

PM me if you want more details.

 

cheers

 

 

[Bug]

How many mountains are there?

Edited May 20, 2007 by Bug

[Jopa]

Formally:

 

Xi=log(1), where Xi=number of mountains in Wisconsin

[carolyn]

Some of the leads can be spicy due to the steep and slick nature of the quartzite and years of toproping, but the rock is solid and takes good gear. Once you climb on DL quartzite the granite in the PNW will feel like cheating.

 

Oh- THIS is why I LOVE climbing in the PNW - or anywhere other than the midwest!!!!!!!!