Smoke Bluff Route Name

[Weekend_Climberz]

There's a short crack/corner to the right of Cat Crack and just left of the 10a crack in the Neat and Cool area. It features a few small trees to sling for pro down low and an ackward 5.8 corner at the top. It's obviously been climbed before, but the new guide lacks a red-line and a name for this route. Anyone know anything more about it?

[G-spotter]

It's Corner Crack and it's 5.7 not 5.8

[catbirdseat]

Here's another one for you Dru. An older guide book had Broomstick Crack with an R, while the current McLane guide has Boomstick. Which is correct? Everyone I know calls it Boomstick.

[G-spotter]

It's always been Boomstick except in error in the 92 McLane guide.

 

Do you know what a Boomstick is?

[G-spotter]

It's Corner Crack and it's 5.7 not 5.8

 

Actually if you were slinging trees then you were on the 5.6 variation left of "The Edge" that avoids all the good climbing on Corner Crack and then joins into CC at the same ledge as The Edge. The reason it isn't shown in the guidebook is because no one in their right mind would climb this tree-clogged variation if they could be climbing one of the adjacent routes.

[catbirdseat]

It's always been Boomstick except in error in the 92 McLane guide.

 

Do you know what a Boomstick is?

It's a sawed off shotgun, but why did they use that name? I thought it was reference the sound the flake makes when you thump it.

[G-spotter]

Nope... it's something that is worth $300 a cubic meter right now.

[catbirdseat]

Okay, Dru, I give up.

[sprocket]

I thought Corner Crack was pretty fair at 5.8, it's kind of awkward and polished, certainly harder than the two 5.8's up on the ledge to the left, Sally Five Fingers was one of them I think.

 

I thought a boom stick was those single-shot shotguns that divers carried to ward off sharks or was that bangstick.

[G-spotter]

a boomstick is the long straight log they use to form up the edges of a log boom

 

boom stick crack is a long straight crack

 

Corner Crack has always been 5.7.

[catbirdseat]

I think it's a double entendre.

[Weekend_Climberz]

It's Corner Crack and it's 5.7 not 5.8

 

Actually if you were slinging trees then you were on the 5.6 variation left of "The Edge" that avoids all the good climbing on Corner Crack and then joins into CC at the same ledge as The Edge. The reason it isn't shown in the guidebook is because no one in their right mind would climb this tree-clogged variation if they could be climbing one of the adjacent routes.

 

That's funny, I just figured it was another tree'd up climb as per the standard Squamish climbs. The top is definately not 5.8, but I was going by the Beckey ratings, which you have to adjust for age

[G-spotter]

So he didn't go to Zero Gully again?

[catbirdseat]

Zero for Three is it?

[Weekend_Climberz]

He said he's giving up on it for good. I'm still game though for next year. Hike the road or whatever...

[G-spotter]

With the big cornices, it will probably be better in a couple weeks than right now anway.

[Weekend_Climberz]

There was a bunch of new snow, and yes, very large cornices on Silver Tip. Hope your place is on high ground Dru, looks like there's gonna be some flood'n soon.

[RuMR]

I thought Corner Crack was pretty fair at 5.8, it's kind of awkward and polished, certainly harder than the two 5.8's up on the ledge to the left, Sally Five Fingers was one of them I think.

 

I thought a boom stick was those single-shot shotguns that divers carried to ward off sharks or was that bangstick.

bang stick...

[blueserac]

Corner Crack is a great route for those wishing to do some routes in boots. Ok, most of the easy routes at Neat n Cool are great routes for boots. So most of the routes lower down at Butter Fingers, ok..Burgers...Pixies is a fun spot for boots; The North Apron lines a friggin awsome for boots too. Give it up, Corner Crack is 5.7, feel free to do variations.

 

Has anyone tried linking routes together in a horizontal traverse in the Bluffs during a busy summer day? You will gain recognition.

Edited May 10, 2007 by blueserac

[stinkyclimber]

Has anyone tried linking routes together in a horizontal traverse in the Bluffs during a busy summer day? You will gain recognition.

 

For the maximum annoyance-factor, do this free-solo, with dreads, no shirt and a barking crag dog following you on the ground. Must act uber-nonchalant. And look a little shaky. If you use a rope, someone will clove hitch it off to one of the aforementioned trees or a draping top-rope.

[jordop]

And then brag about how you don't believe in medical insurance . . .

[jmace]

Has anyone tried linking routes together in a horizontal traverse in the Bluffs during a busy summer day? You will gain recognition.

 

isnt in the guide..."thousand Pardons" or is that somewhere else

[G-spotter]

Has anyone tried linking routes together in a horizontal traverse in the Bluffs during a busy summer day? You will gain recognition.

 

isnt in the guide..."thousand Pardons" or is that somewhere else

 

it's a fun route too

 

[catbirdseat]

I thought Corner Crack was pretty fair at 5.8, it's kind of awkward and polished, certainly harder than the two 5.8's up on the ledge to the left, Sally Five Fingers was one of them I think.

 

I thought a boom stick was those single-shot shotguns that divers carried to ward off sharks or was that bangstick.

bang stick...

There are several early guides that all list it as "Broomstick".

 

Culbert (1972)

Smail (1976)

Barley (1979)

Campbell (1986)

Harlin (1987)

 

It was McLane who first published it as "Boomstick".

[G-spotter]

You are full of shit cbs. I have the Culbert, Smaill and Campbell guides right here and it is Boomstick in all of them.