DCramer Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Back when I was a teenager Index was very much ignored and there were easy plums ripe for the picking everywhere. These plums were pretty much at a very achievable standard of the day. Nothing has changed. There are still plenty of plums ready for the picking at the achievable standards of the current day. I wonder why they aren’t being picked? Look around - expand your vision. Worrying about short anchors that for the most part have been in place longer than most Index climbers have been alive seems crazy when one of the ripest plums in the state is 25’ away. (the bottom of 10%: it's clean good pro - ready to go!) I have a list the size of my arm of great looking yet to be climbed routes. The Upper Wall has been ignored. The best free climber I know out of Wa had this to say about Town Crier: I attempted Town Crier for a very short period of time that included a day of scrubbing. If I remember correct the only section that was remotely difficult was the roof section. Looking back, I bet there are a number of knee-bars and it wouldn't be to bad... The traverse just below the roof I recall climbing the offset crack to the left and the pitch above the roof 11+? Why hasn’t p1 of Golden Arch been freed? (only a few feet are hard on the first pitch up the arch) TC and GA are clean and ready to go. Sick of “dumbed down” routes? Get on these babies – ground up, no preinspection - pure as pure can be. Same with Green Dragon and the Diamond Dihedral. The possibilties are virtually endless. Make your own tradition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 yeah daryl, tell'em how it is. was on heaven's gate the other day and noticed two sets of fixed lines on projects to the right of HG. right on you guys, its amazing how far from climbed out the UTW is. its potential is astounding. here's some other stuff the local bolt choppers could work on instead of chop anchors: final pitch on tempitchous to the rim, line to the left of HG following parts of lamplighter with variations, scrub the earwax wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Good point. I always like to tell people to go scrub something We were also up on HG recently and noticed the fixed lines on the "Mossy Corner" That thing is such a mess, I give major props to whomever is working on cleaning that thing up. Gonna take a very long time, but it might turn out to be another fun route. Looked at it on the way down, looks like depending on where the line runs it might be a fairly continuous sustained route. I think some of that rock up there like on HG is some of the best sport climbing I've ever done anywhere. Lots of other large overhanging ominous rock up there too. Haven't been up on much of it aside from aiding way back when and I'm really not sure there is that much up there that is easily doable unless you climb 5.12 hard and don't mind and aid pitch or two to get you to some of the possible lines. I'll take your word though that there are lots of things still up for grabs. sometimes I wonder if we are seeing another wave of popularity hitting index like in the 80's when so much was bolted up, cleaned and listed in the guide. Still tons of stuff lost in the moss that I think was probably only climbed once by whomever projected it. Unfortunately not enough people climb hardman 5.11/5.12 but maybe that will change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Good point. I always like to tell people to go scrub something yeah, i scrubbed sideshow and earwax two summer agos but you can't really tell at this point. Unfortunately not enough people climb hardman 5.11/5.12 but maybe that will change. seems to me like 5.12 hardmen from seattle are about a dime a dozen these days. funny when you see people just running laps on iron horse, numbah 10, and the first pitch of NAD. p1 of abraxas would be a reasonable free project. also, there appears to be a numbner of proj/variations to the right of senseless thoughts of paranoia. has rise and fall ever been repeated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Word is that there are a few untouched walls hidden in the trees and moss, only a short walk from some of the most popular areas of the lower wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradclimbguy Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Well, you bring the napalm and I'll bring a big ass tooth brush and we can go to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Telemack Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Daryl: It's Mack Johnson. I heard you want some route info; call (360)698-0625 OR email linezj@wavecable.com. I don't know if I'm receiving PMs or replies to my postings thru cc.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Daryl, please delete some of your PMs. You're over the limit and can't receive any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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