Garibaldi via the Elfin Lakes Hut approach?

[payaso]

Hi All, haven't been on here in a long time and my how I like the new look!

 

Anyway, I imagine a few people are hoping to climb Garibaldi this year and wanted to start a Garibaldi via the Elfin Lakes Hut approach thread.

 

Can anyone recommend a phone number for access conditions? Does Garibaldi PP know anything about climbers access?

 

Thanks ahead of time.

[jordop]

I have no idea what you mean by "access conditions". The road is plowed year round to the parking lot. Beyond that there is snow all the way to the summit. Sometimes it might be slushy in the sun. Sometimes it might be icy in the mornings . . . There is no phone number for anything other than weather. What exactly were you concerned about?

[Ponzini]

The road to the parking lot will be fine by now (ie probably won't need chains). Given the amount of snow this year, there should be continuous snow from Red Heather onwards til about mid June at least.

[mtn_mouse]

I was up there late March, and the road was bare and dry, with the snow starting right at the trailhead parking lot. Great access skinning up an old roadway until you get on top. I left my skins on for the ski down as it was a bit steep and icy and fast.

[G-spotter]

If you have a 4wd Brohm Ridge is a faster approach around this time of year.

[payaso]

Thanks for the replies. Most of you understood what I meant. I had heard that this route had a significant washout a couple years back and was wondering if this had been fixed.

 

Perhaps I misunderstood the beta on the washout as being on a road and not the trail / climbing route. If it was the access road to the TH, it must be fixed if people are driving to it currently. If it was the trail / climbing route, I would need information on this as well. I have never climbed / hiked up in that area before. I plan on doing this in early June.

 

I had thought that perhaps since this is in Garibaldi Provincial Park that there might be some person employed there who may have some backcountry knowledge regarding at least approach conditions.

 

Thanks for the help!

[G-spotter]

I think you are thinking of the bridge washout on the Mamquam Lake trail, which has nothing to do with Garibaldi access.

[PaulB]

If it was the trail / climbing route, I would need information on this as well. I have never climbed / hiked up in that area before. I plan on doing this in early June.

No problems with the trail and/or routes to the summit. Given the snowpack this year, I'd recommend skis even in June. In good conditions you can skin right up to the summit plateau.

 

I had thought that perhaps since this is in Garibaldi Provincial Park that there might be some person employed there who may have some backcountry knowledge regarding at least approach conditions.

You can check for updated trail conditions on the BC parks website.

 

The Clubtread forums are a good resource for more up to date info.

[payaso]

bump

[jordop]

Bulletin

2007.06.03 by xxxx xxxx Bare for 2km: Carried skis for 2km. Enough snow beyond.

I'd take skis until July.

[payaso]

I will probably be using snowshoes, sorry skiiers. For the approach via elfin lakes, what do people consider to be the ideal higher base camp. I think there is the glacier right below Dalton Dome that might be reasonable.

[G-spotter]

you can daytrip it from Elfin Lakes. Dalton Dome would only make sense if coming from Brohm Ridge as it is the other side of the mountain from Elfin.

[jordop]

I will probably be using snowshoes, sorry skiiers. For the approach via elfin lakes, what do people consider to be the ideal higher base camp. I think there is the glacier right below Dalton Dome that might be reasonable.

 

Just stay at the cabin and you don't have to take a tent - camping below the E face of Atwell in hot summer sun might get some rock/snowfall. Summit is only ~2-3 hours from base of Atwell E face anyway . . .

[payaso]

Brohm ridge looks more direct, do some of you consider it easier? I will be up there with some people with relative light experience and the guide books say the Elfin huts are the easiest way. The hut however looks a bit far from the summit, making peak day a big dragout marathon. Or maybe it's not so bad.

 

I am hoping snowshoes suffice.

 

Brohm looks shorter for sure..

 

Thanks everyone for your help and patience!

[Zoran]

If you pick Elfin approach and day trip from the hut (very good idea!), don't leave anything in the hut. Bring stuff up higher and hide it. Bivy notch (from Alpine Select" book) is absolutely outstanding place. Climbing peak will be challenge for novice climbers but maybe Dru and Jordo disagree.

Z

 

 

[payaso]

So stuff gets rippied off from the hut?

 

The mopst challeging factors I can see are a long approach and the summit block which we will probably attempt in several small and fast groups.

 

Can you please elaborate what you consider the challenges?

 

Are you suggesting camping at the bivy notch or the Hut? How much room for how many people is at the bivy notch. Thanks for you answers.

[Zoran]

Hut is very often visited by people who go there to drink and socialize smoking pot.

I know, nothing is wrong with that but sometimes they check out your gear too. :-)

Two years ago we lost some stuff (small stove, thermarest and miniature alarm clock). Our mistake. We started at 2AM from hut to climb Garibaldi and didn't even anticipated someone will steal anything.

One time ranger arrested guys trying to steal gas from my friends truck. We smelled gas around truck and my friend worried he damaged reservoir on the way up. Latter, police call him at home and informed him about accident.

 

Regarding climbing Garibaldi I would really like if Dru, PaulB or Jordo can comment the climb itself. They are better climbers than I am.

Notch is enough big for 2 to 3 tents.It's not perfectly flat but when snow covered, platform could be made and bivy will be perfect. I have never slept there (we had lunch twice) but I can imagine drinking tea and watching sunset and sunrise. I would like to hear from you about that after you come back.

Approach is long but trip will be something you won't easily forget. If you like to bag a peak go to Brohm, if you like to have memorable trip do Elfin approach.

For more info about route you should look into bivouac database.

 

 

Edited June 14, 2007 by Zoran

[Zoran]

I forgot to mention that Pozini's comment about summit pyramide climb will be appreciated to. He is outstanding climber and frequent leader. At the same time, his opinion will be based on his skills to access capabilities of the group, not only can he climb that or not.

It is very important to have skills like that and give appropriate advice to others.

[fern]

I think Zoran is talking about the East Ridge route on Atwell - which is a more technical and usually climbed earlier in spring, versus the easiest route to the summit of Garibaldi proper which is typically done from the Warren glacier and has technical difficulties similar to other standard routes on cascade volcanoes.

[jordop]

I think Zoran is talking about the East Ridge route on Atwell - which is a more technical and usually climbed earlier in spring, versus the easiest route to the summit of Garibaldi proper which is typically done from the Warren glacier and has technical difficulties similar to other standard routes on cascade volcanoes.

 

Garibaldi from the NE is straightforward snow, with only the bergschrund to worry about later in the year. When climbing from Elfin Lakes, the SE face (easy snow) tops out on the plateau from whence the actual summit is 30m of steep dirt in summer or waterice in spring. Sting in the tail on an easy climb.

[payaso]

thanks for all your patient replies. I tend to like camping high where possible and only get into shelters when the weather stinks. It sounds like we could jam about 9 people into the bivy area and have a decent climb approach for climb day.

 

I am also worried about the cars at the parking lot since it seems like the local natives have taken to abusing vehicles this past winter.

 

I think that technically we can find a way up the summit.

 

The bivy ridge seems more reasonable than the super long day from the hut in my opinion. We can always stay night two at the hut if we have the time and energy.

 

I have always wanted to get up in this area and everyone's advise is most helpful. Thank you.